Anatomy of A Successful Student “Movement”

About a year and half ago, I found myself sitting in the CC-1 (Chair Car) coach of the Hazarduari Express, heading towards Krishnanagar. I was accompanying the chief guest and main speaker of a workshop to be held at our college. The man in question, despite being older than my father and with years of academic and administrative experience behind him, proved to be quite the chatting companion. As the train gathered pace after Barrackpore, our conversation moved to the then just-concluded movement in Jadavpur University. Knowing him to be a man of the “administration”, I ventured to point out that the entire movement had hardly helped the academic ambiance of the University, with classes being disrupted and students spending more time protesting than actually studying.

I’d expected a mild commentary on how student politics gone to seed was reaping a stormy harvest. Instead, I received a wry smile. He said, “Aritra, do you really believe this to be a students’ movement ? Would it have succeeded if it had ?” Now let’s rewind a bit. Anyone familiar with the history of the movement ostensibly sparked by the molestation of a girl student in a boys’ hostel would know that the students had been at the forefront from the very beginning. It had spawned a larger protest that led to street rallies attended by students (especially girl students) from the majority of South Kolkata colleges. Petitions, signature campaigns, sit-ins and even hunger strikes had become the order of the day. Eventually, the V-C had been “ousted”, leading to a “victory” for the movement.

The reason I put the words “ousted” and “victory” in quotes is because of what he explained thereafter. I forget the exact words, but the crux of his argument went thus – a students’ movement would never have succeeded without the connivance of the faculty. The faculty, in fact, had instigated the movement because the V-C had chosen to remove a few HODs and Directors from their positions. These HODs and Directors held on to their positions in order to remain at the top of patron-client networks involving other faculty, students and research scholars. By trying to break this quid pro quo, the V-C had stirred a hornet’s nest. The result was that a movement demanding security for female students had turned into a “revolution” that achieved the V-C’s resignation, and nothing more. The girl was forgotten the moment the interested parties were sure their positions were secure from what they saw as administrative caprice.

It took me the remainder of the train ride to digest what I’d learnt. There’s a realist political theorist in all of us, and mine was screaming “Duh! There goes your ideology and high esteem of the students.” The voice was right of course, since without some amount of administrative support, the movement would never have succeeded. If every rule against students is imposed rigidly, it becomes a lot harder to effect a movement of the scale and intensity seen in Jadavpur.

But the wisdom I received during that train ride has been tempered with many events since. Most notable among them have been the movement in Presidency against capricious fee hikes and attendance rules, and the recently concluded one in Medical College against refusal of new boarding facilities to senior male students. Note that in each case, the students received far less support from their teachers than their peers in Jadavpur.

So what does it take to make a movement succeed ? Is it necessary to have the support of at least a section of the faculty, who will overlook bunked classes and missed deadlines at the least, and major conflicts with the police at worst, for their own vested interests ? Marxist historians talk of autonomy of the subaltern space, which has its own language. Students’ movements are quasi-subaltern, since they use the language of the ruling class but invert it without becoming merely a bourgeois reaction. They possess their own autonomy, created in defiance to and not always as simply a reaction to, administrative fiat. Yet they are at the core of the structure instead of being in the periphery like the true subaltern, and hence represent a fleeting autonomy that cannot truly count on any foundations of class or social structure to ensure its survival.

In my own student days, far before I had become aware of such complex terminologies, this was made patent to me in the way seniors reacted to ongoing movements, and passouts simply looked the other way. Some continued to voice support, but made it clear that as employees or scholars, their priorities were different and they would not find it easy to openly support the student fraternity, even if in their heart of hearts, they wished to. Hence, the autonomy remained with the student as long as she was the student, theoretically detached from the capitalist system through the cobwebs of state sponsored education, and she gave it up in exchange for a social role involving productivity within the capitalist system. Naturally, the affinities of each batch of students varied, and so “students’ movements” tended to vary year by year, semester by semester, even month by month.

But if we teachers’ selfish support is to be considered a necessary condition for the success of a students’ movement, is the student truly autonomous in any domain ? Is she not simply a pawn in the patron-client relationships that characterize all of academia, a puppet to be pulled by a string as and when the professor desires ? In other words, isn’t the space she occupies hegemonized by the professors, the equivalent of the bourgeois leaders in the subaltern schemata ?

I’ve pondered over this question for the better part of the year, and to some extent, I surrendered to the lack of student autonomy. It is inevitable since students are after all defined by their position as recipients of education. If they risk being stripped of their position, they risk losing their social role and status. Professors are vital to the retention and validation of this social role, and hence, a separate tribal autonomy can never exist since the student was neither autonomous to begin with nor was she able to carve out any space that by definition would be beyond the domain of a recipient of education, because the moment she did so, she ceased being a student.

But students still do protest, and they still do succeed. And when they do, the levels of teacher support varies considerably. Even intellectuals, otherwise so vocal on issues of national politics, turn taciturn and make noises possessing less coherence than horns in a traffic jam. So what makes them succeed ? What I’ve concluded is that, just as the actors themselves are important, so is the structure.

This structure is the university. You’d have noticed that the nature of the movements varies considerably across universities. Whereas the most successful student movement in the University of Calcutta centered on simply getting more marks, the movements in unitary universities such as Presidency, Jadavpur or JNU have taken on more radical and indeed more intellectual dimensions. From questioning the state to the failure of the administration and social justice mechanisms, they have raised fundamental questions that have more often than not resulted in deep discomfiture for the authorities themselves. These authorities, inevitably, have had to related to a state seen as “the other” by the students, been pushed into a tight moral corner and then have had to capitulate before courts or prolonged hunger strikes. In essence, as in results, you feel the protests of unitary universities have been markedly different from those of affiliating universities and ordinary colleges (Medical College itself is an exception, though one with a fair amount of autonomy itself).

How do I draw this linkage ? To begin with, let us look at revolutions in the classical sense of the term. They are political events, essentially linked with homogenous populations with a heightened sense of solidarity based on shared culture and language, and against a single focus, a single “other”. In other words, both the “for” and “against” attained a degree of unity, despite their internal contradictions.

I’d argue that there is a parallel with unitary universities. Unitary universities have a single and concentrated focus of power – the V-C. He, along with the Deans and Registrar, are in far greater control of the university than their counterparts in affiliating universities, where teacher unions, autonomous colleges and institutes all have their own power loci. In other words, it is far easier to influence the V-C of a unitary university because he is limited within the university itself and cannot draw upon legitimate support from outside the campus itself. (Legitimate being the key word here, since the state support is by definition illegitimate.)

On the other hand, the student body studies within one (or at most two campuses) and is therefore able to follow a single set of leaders, ideals, unions, and campus modalities. Over time, a certain homogeneity of culture emerges, which flattens inequalities on one hand and raises expectations of social justice on the other. This coalescing of what would otherwise have been different colleges and their own departments, leads to a far greater cohesion among students as far as actions are concerned. The knowledge that their “other” is a simple target (rather than a complex and far-flung bureaucracy with multiple centers of power and stakeholders) further cements this cohesion.

Thirdly, there is a degree of isolation that these universities can afford. This is initially created by the faculty to shield themselves from the intrusive and colonizing tendencies of the state. But over time, it creates an environment that feels sui generis even when it really isn’t. This creates a belief that the unitary university is a special place, and its ideals are indeed out of the ordinary. This sense of specialness is critical to the mobilizing of students who would otherwise have been mute spectators or indifferent observers. This sense of patriotism towards the institution, whether justified by the history of it or not, further fuels solidarity among the students and fires their imagination. Under the right leadership, this sense of patriotism becomes a clarion call to maintain what was, retain what is good and remove the ever-evil state power from infringing upon the former two.

Hence, like the classic nationalist movements, there are 3 main ingredients – a single source of power that can be targeted within the realm, a unified opposition (temporarily, I know I know) and a structure which prides itself on its uniqueness and to a degree, separation from other powers.

Now why can’t ordinary colleges, or affiliating universities, claim the same characteristics ? For starters, the centre of power is very diffuse. Take any affiliating university, and you will find a veritable cobweb of officials, many of whom stay in different campuses and are affiliated to different Schools. Secondly, the teaching fraternity itself, including the part that is in power, is very large and internally divided. It is almost impossible to take on such a heterogenous group, especially since they all belong to different colleges or schools, and may not interact with each other at all.

The students, on the other hand, have little unity beyond what is provided by the umbrella students’ body of the ruling party. These students are more likely to look to their own General Secretary for help than any larger organization. Given that the dynamics differ widely from college to college, unity needed for pressure tactics to work are simply not present. You could argue that the clash over marks in CU was an exception. It was, but it only showed that the students would coalesce around what mattered the most to them (marks from exams they didn’t give well), and nothing else.

Thirdly, affiliating colleges are deeply embedded in the fabric of politics of the state and the country. Since the ruling party basically controls the student unions and has a large section of supporters among the teachers as well, the sense of isolation is simply not present, even if we find vestiges of pride in some areas.

Now let us juxtapose the question of teacher pressure on these two differing scenarios. In unitary universities, entrance tests and their modalities are jealously guarded in the name of quality. Quality there may or may not be, but it definitely ensures that the students who come in have a decent amount of knowledge and perhaps a slight ideological bent of mind as well. This ensures that they can easily become part of the “campus politics”, which as my companion suggested, could simply be strings being pulled by one section of teachers against another. Hence, when a section uses this campus politics to its advantage – or straight up instigates it – the students have the necessary linkages, ideology and feeling of the need to stick together, to maintain a united front. This front mobilizes in favour of the faculty concerned, and the teachers look on benevolently as their ends are met by their foot soldiers.

But what if the teachers don’t support them ? In these cases, I’d argue, the student still possesses the linkages between themselves (community), ideology (language) and fellow-feeling that is necessary to maintain a space of quasi-autonomy within the power structures of the university. It is true that a section of students would bow to pressure (applied through threats of poor marking, attendance troubles, etc.) to accede and withdraw. But even if this segment is colonized and rendered inert by the colonizing power (the faculty and the administration) the remainder continue their struggle. Eventually, they do attract enough support to force a section of the “intellectuals” to support them, thereby making it harder for the faculty to maintain adverse pressure. Eventually, the “authority” capitulates and the movement is withdrawn.

In ordinary colleges and affiliating universities, however, entrance exams are typically not held or are simple MCQ affairs. These bring in students who have simply obtained good marks or managed to mug up enough to clear the exam. They seldom possess the knowledge required for clear political views, and come from a very diverse set of backgrounds. It is never easy for faculty to mould such a diverse grouping into anything usable by themselves. Even when they do try, they find themselves to be possessing little actual power, since the university and the state monitor and control everything to a very high degree. The result is that the students develop a far more transactional relationship, preferring to simply keep their heads low, get the degrees and then search for jobs. Anything beyond this is difficult to conceive unless they threaten the degrees themselves (eg. the large number of people failing in General subjects as a result of changes in rules).

Hence, when the teachers want to run a movement (assuming they’re united, which they never are), they find the students’ union to be an unreliable vehicle of their opinion. Students simply know the teachers don’t have the power to enforce anything that might harm them, and don’t care enough about either the university or any burning issues to put themselves on the line. The result is that college and affiliating university teachers have far less influence, even if they wanted to exert it.

The reverse is also true. If the students sought to start a movement and achieved union backing, there is very little a teacher, a principal or a V-C can do beyond calling up the minister and asking for help. For movements with political backing, the movement might die out with a minister’s whip, but if it’s autonomous, it’d take longer (though these movements are very rare). Never would you hear of a police charge or suchlike in a college or affiliating university on issues beyond anything related to marks or campus fighting (not politics in the sense of discussions, but actual physical fighting). This is because once the head phones the required higher authority, diktats ensure most movements (which are led by this or that party) die out. What remain gradually take on other forms beyond the college, with the faculty remaining mute spectators.

Thus, to return to the point I’d made in the beginning – teachers’ attitudes are important and necessary for movements to quickly gain momentum and then keeping moving forward despite external and internal pressure. But teachers’ attitudes are coloured by and limited by the nature of the institution. The institution decides whether the student body is united, whether there is isolation or embeddedness, how strong the administration can be and how easy it is to assault, and what impact, if any, the teachers have on the course of events. If the structure is favourable, the movement is powerful. If it is not, the movement, regardless of where it happens, will be a flop.

Moral of the story, thus, is if you want student protests to die out, just stop the public unitary universities and prevent new ones from coming up. Problems related to student politics will solve themselves.

Assassins Creed : Origins – The “Distracted” Review

Those who have read (this is getting a bit cliched now isn’t it ?) my review of AC Syndicate will know I’m a big fan of the series. In fact, this is the only series which I’ve almost finished, and barring AC III, never regretted it. This is also the franchise that took an unusual two-year break after Syndicate. So expectations were high, and well, they’ve been fulfilled. The game is everything AC should be – big, beautiful, historical with lively characters and of course, with excellent parkour and gameplay. The problem though, is that it is these very features that make it a rather unusual and I’d say, distracting, experience.

Graphics – The graphics are breathtaking, as usual. I say as usual because after witnessing London in all her glory, and jumping through glitched Paris, I thought I’d seen it all.  After all, there would be fewer great buildings to create, and lesser crowds. But Egypt is truly beautiful. The buildings are true to history, which is a huge achievement because unlike Paris and London, most of them have been reduced to ruins long back. Again, the tombs and temples are shown to be derelict, but not as derelict as today, giving an impression of the huge timespan that Egypt had already seen before we come to the Ptolemaic period, where the game is set.

 

Beyond the breathtaking temples, spooky tombs and other creations of mankind, there is of course, nature itself. Expectedly, population is thick around the Nile and thins out rapidly as we move away. Move a little more than a kilometer from the Nile and you get the desert. The desert is accurate, even to the point of the protagonist Bayek’s shoes sinking in and pulling out of the sand! What would have made things more realistic is if they had included dehydration mechanics. But given how well malaria went in Far Cry 2, I would keep that sort of realism at bay.

Move closer to the Nile though, and you find palm trees and farms recreated in excellent detail. They are of course more primitive, but beautifully rendered. Whether you are running across sandy patches among palm trees, hunting leopards or deer or hiding in the tall bushes, the game never lets you feel as if you’re out of place or time. Indeed, for those who have come from  Shadow of War or Far Cry series, the landscape is remarkably similar but unique because it is historical. 

 

Speaking of historical, the game tries to recreate historical figures from antiquity. Here, it falls a little short. Like Watch Dogs before it, the faces and gestures are just that little bit wooden. The flowing robes are a little bit triangulated and stiff, and you the eyes are just a little bit lifeless. This need not have happened because we know how realistic facial animations are, even in Far Cry 4. Maybe Ubi’s budget didn’t allow it, or maybe the huge number of characters’ facial animations would have broken the engine. We don’t know, but Ubi simply doesn’t get full marks here.

Rating – 5/5

 

 

Plot – Veterans like me have come to expect revenge plots from practically every AC game. Syndicate was an exception, and a very refreshing one at that. AC Origins goes back to the tried and tested formula. Except this time, there is no Brotherhood to begin with. The game instead puts you into the shoes of a hereditary protector, Bayek, who hails from the desert oasis region of Siwa. He is an ethnic Egyptian, and something of a small town guy, with deep religious beliefs and the fervent hope that he’d settle down with his wife Aya when all is over.

What is this “all” ? Basically, a mysterious order called the Order of the Ancients had found the Apple of Eden and wanted Bayek’s “help” in figuring things out. When he told them he didn’t know, they threatened to kill his son Khemu. Khemu tries to free his father, but the ensuing combat leads Bayek to accidentally kill Hemu. And of course, he blames the Order. Long story short, the Order must die.

Then follows the usual “search-and-destroy” storyline, where Bayek moves from one region to another, taking down members of the Order, only to find there are more. Within this storyline, Cleopatra and her intrigues are thrown in, with Caesar coming in eventually. Like the young Ezio and somewhat like Elise, Bayek is driven by a mad rage that leads him to attack with deep hatred. Not that he isn’t careful, since the final assassination missions are very well crafted (except the Taharqa one, which basically ended in five minutes) and can be approached from multiple angles. But this isn’t the suave Evie or the measured older Ezio, and you get the feeling that they’ll slip up eventually.

Except they never do. The game has no vicious twists, no heartrending endings and no strange loose ends. The one twist there is turns out to be almost benevolent, because we are practically unaffected and are soon on the trail again. Good guys remain good, and barring Cleopatra (whom we knew was a mistress of intrigue) few turn out to be anything but what they appear at face value. The one exception – Taharqa – is a genuine blindsider, but he’s one in a game that has at least a dozen targets.

Another gripe I have about the whole thing is that the game, very annoyingly, switches between Aya and Bayek for plot purposes. The trouble is, unlike Evie and her brother, you can’t customize them as and how you like. You can only work with Bayek, while Aya gets fixed levels and gear. Imagine my frustration when I’ve honed a certain approach using hunter and predator bows (basically the equivalents of powerful crossbows and sniper rifles) only to be handed light and warrior bows (which have different mechanics) for Aya. Also, you can’t free roam with Aya, even though there are substantially large sections of the game where you have to play her. In the end, this makes for sections which are must-complete but extremely irritating.

More irritating is the fact that unlike previous games, you aren’t the main decision-maker. Most of the time you are playing second-fiddle to your wife or Cleopatra or Appolodorus or someone else. Without sounding sexist, I’ll posit that the main protagonist should have more agency. Aya decides who to kill, where to go, and leaves you without giving you the choice to follow or take her along on some missions. In the end, she simply breaks up so you and she become “Hidden Ones”, but aren’t in a relationship anymore. More jarringly, she doesn’t seem to be that much perturbed by her son’s loss at this point, making you wonder whether you were the one seeking a happy family while she was after more worldly goals.

The irritating Aya aside, the game takes its plot and history seriously. Cleopatra, Caesar and the others are portrayed vividly and their characters have a life which would have taken a good amount of effort to bring about. I know I have griped about the graphics of these characters, but the dialogue is spot on, and makes you feel as if you’ve been transported to the period.

Beyond the main game, there are a number of side missions which open up interesting sub-plots. As with Watch Dogs 2, they don’t’ really connect with the main plotline, but tell more about Bayek in particular. For me, these helped make the protagonist more human an likeable, something I could never do when it came to Aya.

 

Overall, the story is a little jaded but has enough that’s refreshing in it for one to remain interested. For history buffs like me, the very thought of interacting with Cleopatra and Caesar would be enough, but even if you’re not into history like me, the whole story would be good enough to last a dozen hours at least.

 

Rating – 4/5

Gameplay – For someone who had to create an entire Reddit thread to bitch about the gameplay mechanics, having to say that the overall gameplay is great is a bit of a mea culpa. To begin with, the fighting is very different from what it was in the previous AC games, and requires you to be a lot more agile. The game doesn’t suggest this, asking you instead to use the shield as much as possible. As with all shields though, half the attacks cannot be blocked and you become immobile while using it, exposing you to attacks from other sides. Instead, you must dodge, dodge and dodge. There are no counter prompts but if you can get an enemy off-balance, your next attack automatically becomes a counter.

These are important, because assassination no longer works the way it should. Like actual  RPGs, your hidden blade also has a damage rating. Attack enemies with a higher lifebar and you will deal substantial but not lethal damage. This is especially problematic when you’re in missions where a good number of the enemies are of a higher level. Take the example of Pissa Oros Citadel in the Isolated Desert. The defenders are typically levels 38-40, which are the highest levels in the game. Indeed, moving into the region at any level below 35 is a death sentence. However, there is a mission  which asks you to head there at level 35 itself, and your primary target is at 35. But the defenders are much  higher. In an ordinary AC game, you’d sneak about, assassinating the enemies until only the bosses remained. Then you’d somehow either avoid them or take them out while completing your objectives.

But now you can’t take them out. Stabbing a level 39 enemy takes a sliver off their health bar, leaving you to fight a tough battle or be killed. This makes taking on higher level citadels or enemies virtually impossible, and turns the game into much more of a leveled dungeon-crawler than it had to be.

The same is the situation with loot. You have to constantly get better gear to defeat more powerful enemies. Moving away from historicity, the game adds special attributes to the weapons and other gear, which you must use to your advantage. However, it also adds levels and “quality”. This means that you can’t use a level 37 sword if you’re level 36. Hence, even if you managed to kill off that powerful enemy, you won’t be able to use the weapon until you level up.

This can sometimes make the game a grind. Most RPG type games turn the last 10 odd levels into a grind. Diablo II did that with the levels 20-30, The Division did that with the same bracket and AC Origins does that with levels 30 to 40. With the final levels requiring in excess of 20000xp each, you have to complete at least 6-8 missions to move to the next level. While this doesn’t hurt those playing the main storyline only (because the final mission requires a level of 35 only), those seeking to become masters of Egypt have a lot of grief ahead of them.

Not that the side missions are boring. You’d do everything from buying prostitutes to jumping off buildings to impress children in order to get that sweet sweet XP. There are also various weapon giveouts, and many of these can be lifesavers. For instance, a certain quest called Gift from the Gods gave me stuff that I used for the next 8 odd levels.

Now to talk of bosses. Unlike Syndicate, where you could simply drop off bosses with good assassination skills, here you must fight them as in a regular RPG. This isn’t true for all the Order leaders though. Some will fall pretty easily (like Berenike, whom I killed with a headshot). Others, like Khaliset, will be troublesome but not very tough. Indeed, barring the last boss – Septimius – there are hardly any bosses worthy of a hard half-an-hour fight. Mostly you must dodge and stab your way to victory, and of course, revenge.

The real tough battles lie elsewhere. One series of completely optional and rather tough fights involve the Phylakes. These are bounty-hunters, who appear at various times on the map (in specific regions) and will attack on sight. At lower levels, they are best avoided, since they are truly devastating. However, once you reach their level (or cross it), you are free to take them on and finish them off. These battles take around ten minutes at the least, and involve some deft keyplay, since their attacks are truly devastating. They should definitely be attacked though, since  they drop legendary equipment and lead to a final ending which is quite rewarding.

The other tough battle is called the Trials of the Gods. Here, a random Egyptian god will fight you. Barring the dream sequence mission, this is the only mission where you have a long and arduous boss fight ahead of you, akin to perhaps the Witcher. Dodge, block, dodge and continue for half an hour to eventually defeat the boss and claim the Anubis loot. Again, this is completely optional though, and puritans seeking to retain the original flavor of AC can skip it completely.

But they are not easy to skip, because after a time, they are what make you come back to the game again and again. I had talked about distracting, and this is the most distracting part. You are drawn off into side quests ever so often that the story becomes a second priority. Missions are unique for the most part, characters are interesting (especially the ahem….female ones), and you genuinely want to help these people out. Hence, even when you’re not grinding for XP, you will probably be playing a good number of side missions  before going into the next main battle.

One last honourable mention must be made of the arena. Given the success of the arena in FC4, it was bound to make a comeback, given that Greece and Rome were famous for their arenas. You initially team up with a female champion (who seems to know Bayek but of whom we have no clue), but after that you can go back in as frequently as you like. You can defeat champions and get good weaponry and XP. I personally found the XP to be a little scarce, but the loot was definitely worth it.

 

Overall, the gameplay is what an open world’s gameplay should be – rich, varied, entertaining and distracting from the main quests. But they distract in a good way, and I have little to complain about here.

Rating – 5/5

Characters – I’ve already talked a lot about Bayek and Aya, but more needs to be said. Bayek, to me, is the simpler of the two, and his emotions appear genuine.  His grief at his son’s loss, his desire for vengeance, and his wish to eventually settle down peacefully, are so well brought out that one genuinely feels for him. This, considering that he is the first protagonist who is a father (the Animus glitch sequences of AC Syndicate notwithstanding) and a husband, and hence perhaps a little removed from the average teenage gamer.

Aya on the other hand, appears not a little sinister. Ubisoft probably positioned her as a spiritual successor (predecessor really) to Evie, but the two are poles apart. Where Evie was a likeable, witty and intelligent character who had a friendly rivalry with her brother, Aya’s shades are darker. Initially she seems to be genuinely hurt by the loss of her son, but from the time she meets Cleopatra, she seems to be changing. She leaves Bayek more often and with less explanations, and begins to talk of greatness. You almost feel her moving into Templar territory, though thankfully, she never does so fully.

That said, her ambitions and goals move so far away from Bayek that it seems to be a tragic love story. Except unlike Ezio and Isabella, and unlike Arno and Elise, this tragedy is Aya’s own creation. She moves away willingly, leaving behind her son’s memory and also her husband. While the game tries to portray this as a difficult decision, one may well question the very rationale of it. For me personally, her actions were unjustified and maybe she didn’t feel anything for Bayek anymore. (There’s another Reddit thread running on this at the time of writing).

Beyond the primary characters, the game brings out two historical figures (three if you could Pompei) – Cleopatra and Caesar. Here is where the game truly shines. So much has been read about them that it is difficult to move into these sections without bias. But as a student of history, I wasn’t disappointed. Cleopatra is seen as a scheming woman who wishes for nothing but her own glory. She realizes that being a woman and a pharaoh of a declining empire, her options were limited. But she utilizes them masterfully. Caesar on the other hand believes (rightly) that the sky is the limit for his glory, and is becoming increasingly tyrannical. Yet he appreciates Bayek for his actions, and grudgingly gives Aya her due credit. Overall, the two, locked in a difficult dance of political death, come across as genuine to a degree which is hard to achieve given that they are, after all, figures of antiquity.

Coming to the villains, AC has made it a point to portray them in shades of grey rather than pitch black. Their moral dilemmas are brought out, making them more human than the average protagonist in a video game. In Origins, this is true for some only. You can genuinely feel for Khaliset, and one feels that given her work mostly deals with the desert around Giza, Bayek wasn’t fully justified in killing her. Again, Taharqa is a family man with a self-flattering vision as the rebuilder of greatness. Pothinus comes across as something of a philosopher, though a misguided one.

But that’s it. The others – Septimus, Medunamum, Galleinus and others, come across as cold blooded killers and nothing more. Their discussions after assassination don’t provide much to redeem them either. Perhaps this is just as well, since the Templars have always had a combination of misguided do-gooders and selfish plotters, and ancient Egypt is shown to be no different.

The lesser characters, however, are truly interesting. Whether it is the Mouse in Cyrene, the protector of farms in the same region or (my favourite and uhh “crush”) Praxilla. Each is well defined in their small roles and you get hints of advances and chemistry. These are just hints, and nothing comes of them, but they turn characters who would otherwise just accompany you on a quest or two into fully living creatures who wish to form bonds. These small side quests,  and their often heart-warming NPCs, make the grinding worthwhile, even when the actual mission involves nothing more than raiding a bandit camp or rescuing someone or the other.

To sum up then, the game treats its characters seriously. None are insipid, managing to bringyou’re your emotions- positive or negative – in every case. The care taken to make historical figures realistic, and the NPCs likeable, tells us how much effort Ubisoft has put into making this game a masterpiece.

Rating – 5/5

Conclusion – AC Origins is, in every way, a worthy successor to Syndicate. It demands your time, and wont’ let you take short cuts. Levels are brutally strict and the storyline demands you stick to a certain course. However, even when it turns itself into an RPG, Origins is a good RPG in a world that has been painstakingly and lovingly created. The visuals are stunning and accurate, the characters have a certain joie de vivre and the plot doesn’t disappoint. If you have the time, and are willing to truly explore this fascinating world, AC Origins won’t disappoint you.

Overall Rating – 5/5

 

Shadow of War – The (Intentionally) Unfinished Review 

Readers who would come to my blog in the early days (ah those days!) would probably have been wondering what I do with my game reviews these days. Truth is, I usually put them on Steam, and then they promptly end up in the shade of someone who has played 1000 hours. Okay, I just don’t have that sort of time so okay, ignore me please! But here I am king, because it’s MY blog. And it has been this way for…

THREE YEARS!

To mark this historic occasion (if I may say so myself), I thought I’d put one game review up here instead of at Steam. And the game is…. Shadow of War. Yeah, the sequel to Shadow of Mordor that twists the LOTR franchise into an Orc civil war. Well, SoW gives more of orc on orc slaughter, more Celebrimbor chicanery and a replacement for the oh-so-pretty Lithariel, called Eltariel. So does SoW live up to expectations ? Is there more story than last time ? And is Eltariel as hot as Lithariel ? Let’s find out!

Graphics – Monolith has pulled out all stops to make this game look beautiful. Essentially a medieval gothic landscape, the game brings out the nuances of Mordor beautifully. I’d remarked on the greenery in the second half of SoM, but Nûrnen provides actual tropical greenery. Seregost is covered in snow, and Gorgoroth in lava and ashes. Cirith Ungol and Minas Ithil/Morgul have fair weather, similar to what we saw in SoM. Each area is breathtaking for the sheer care with which cliffs have been drawn, orc actions scripted and atmospheric effects created. Whether you’re braving the smog of industrial Ungol or Gorgoroth or taking in the greenery of Nûrnen, the game will never make you feel bored in terms of scenery.

Character visuals have also been upgraded, but not by a lot. What I really did notice is that the orcs’ facial expressions have now been improved a good deal. But these are to be expected of AAA games, and nothing too fancy caught my eye.

Rating – 4/5

Plot – Shadow of Mordor’s plot was among the most forgettable. You pretty much spent the entire game preparing an army to take down Sauron, and then when you did, he didn’t quite stay down. Hence, Shadow of War. In the beginning, you’re forging a new ring, which is promptly taken from you by a spider masquerading as a mature bombshell – Shelob. You then have to try and fail to sae Minal Ithil, after which you can happily go back to orc domination and forging an army.

In a way, the game suffers from the same problem as its predecessor – after the initial hour, the storyline kinda disappears. Sure, open world games aren’t supposed to have linear storylines, but then what’s a game where you feel your sole task is to dominate orcs ? Once Minas Ithil becomes the spooky Minas Morgul, all that remains of the story are tracking down the Nazgûl, ensuring the Balrog stays inside molten lava and saving the remnants of the garrison of Minas Ithil.

All of these make for interesting side missions, but there is just no urgency to it all. Sure, if you are playing SoW without having played SoM, you are probably already high on the “need to get revenge” thing. But then if you are like me and are a SoM veteran, you get this feeling of déjà vu which is just plain annoying.

This is the main reason I left the bulk of non-Gondor missions for the end. I finished these in a marathon run once I was around level 35, which a) made them super easy and b) proved my point that the storyline here is basically filler. To make matters worse, Talion just doesn’t have any chemistry this time around. I remember clearly Lithariel’s none-too-subtle overtures to Talion. He didn’t give in (probably because having sex while having a frowning Celebrimbor inside you isn’t a libido booster), but this time, there is zilch.

For one, Idril is interested mainly in Baranor, and you kinda feel like the guy in the middle. Yet, this line isn’t developed either, at least not where Talion can see it. The other female character, Eltariel, is too femme fatale and eventually, literally dumps Talion’s company and leaves him dying. But I won’t spoil the whole story here, considering how little there is.

Which brings us to the end of the plot, which is a bugger. WB Games is facing much flak for putting the true ending behind a wall of grind involving repetitive fort defence work (more on this below), and it honestly, isn’t all that great. The part before the final ending is more interesting, especially since it is completely non-canon. Still, ACT III and IV could have been stretched out with the player being given multiple options a la Witcher. But no, you end up where you end up, regardless of your play style and what you did in the game.

Which is to say, you end up back in Shelob’s arms. Does she fuck you ? No, because this game was apparently designed in a Benedictine monastery. Does she fuck with you ? No, because this game was made by people who just wanted to finish up and go home to dinner.

Rating – 2/5

Characters – Given that Talion is technically undead, he hasn’t changed much. He seems a bit more handsome, but that’s it. Maybe Mount Doom’s ashes work like beauty clay, who knows! After all, Sauron sans armour is pretty handsome too! Anyway, Celebrimbor, the wraith half, has given up much of his life force to forge the new ring and this has turned him into a Fallout-esque ghoul. His voice is also somewhat older, and overall you really feel that Talion has become younger and Celebrimbor younger! Apart from that, there is very little character development. There is a nascent tussle regarding the morality of helping Gondor – and then the orcs – between the two, but it is hardly fully played out. Talion wants to help his former comrades defend Ithil, while Celebrimbor only wants the Palantîr, which is what you’d expect if you played the first game. Things seem to be going down the SoM path, when…

Enter Eltariel, the Sword (or similar) of Galadriel. Once Celebrimbor has failed to persuade the rather anorexic elf to hand over the sword, she becomes a marker for the presence of Nazgûl. Taking on her missions basically involves fighting the Nazgûl, shadowy creatures who can flit from one place to another in the blink of an eye (and in the process, glitch more than once). Eltariel would have made a worthy companion, especially with her dislike for the new ring and belief that the Bright Lord would be as bad as the Dark one. But the game just brings her in to fight the ring wraiths, without bothering to develop any chemistry between Talion and Eltariel. Imagine if some chemistry had developed and Talion would be all “Et tu Eltu ?” when she walks off with Celembrimbor. That’d have left me teary eyed. Instead, you just wonder how much they’ll milk Eltariel (sorry for the analogy), in the DLC.

Then there’s Shelob. She’s placed as a mysterious and probably dangerous presence who can see the future. She manages to mesmerize Talion but fails to show him Celebrimbor’s true intentions. Shelob should have received far more screen-time, maybe even as a NPC companion to Talion. Especially since her memories reveal a complex history with the Dark Lord. Instead, she seems to simply come in, take the ring, give visions, return the ring, and help Talion in the end. Maybe they’ll get some spider milk (I MUST stop using this…..aaarggghhh) in the DLC, but overall, another underutilized character.

Now for the Gondorians. The prime among them is Idril, a rather pretty girl who seems to be dangerously underage for orc-hunting. Her daddy-dearest gives up the Palantîr to ensure her safety, though the game fails to explain just how she would be protected. Anyhow, she returns and proves to be a loyal fighter who is determined to stay in Mordor. This takes me back to the SoM where remainders of the Rangers were hiding in a cave and refused to leave until others had been freed.

Then there’s Baranor, who has a thing for Idril and wants her out of harm’s way. However, he himself is determined to fight for Gondor in Mordor, and often joins Talion in fighting orcs. An amiable guy overall, who definitely deserved more missions.

An honourable mention for Càrnan, the wood spirit. Most of the rhymed stuff she says in the game is unintelligible without subtitles, but basically she wants you to ensure Tal Goroth, the balrog of Gorgoroth, isn’t raised by an orc necromancer named Zog. You and Càrnan team up, with the latter taking up a number of animal forms, to kill the balrog and then Zog. This is one of the toughest storylines, and if you are into killing all orcs before finishing the objectives, almost impossible. That said, the rewards include flying dragons so yeah, maybe not so bad after all.

Lastly, the orcs. In general, they provide an excellent introduction to British accents. More particularly, Ratbag makes a return and is the only orc loyal to you throughout. Another character is Brûz, who is an Olog-hai. These creatures, basically crosses between orcs and trolls, tend to be larger and far stronger, but also somewhat stupid. I’ve never gotten over Brûz hiding in a bush, with 90% of his body being easily visible. Anyhow, Brûz’s story is far more complex. To keep things short, he introduces you to the basic domination and fort control techniques in the hope that you’d make him overlord, just like you made Ratbag war chief in SoM. You don’t, and he eventually betrays you when you fend off an attack on Nûrnen. This sparks a rather interesting storyline where you must find, defeat and shame Brûz to make an example of him to other orcs looking to shake off your allegiance.

Except my story didn’t end there. Brûz becomes deranged when he is shamed (as is quite common), but he ambushed me again outside – surprise surprise – the fort of Cirith Ungol. A fort that I already held and whose walls were teeming with my men. Suffice it to say that I was quite merciful when I recruited him again into my army and so ensured he didn’t continue getting pummelled by my pet graug, about a half a dozen of my orcs and of course, me!

This aside, there are a number of other orcs who turn up at various times. Each has his own personality and traits, but apart from an introduction speech, there’s little to their character.

Rating – 2.5/5

Gameplay – Of course, what shines in SoM must shine in SoW, and how! The Nemesis system has now been upgraded to provide a wider array of combat strengths and weaknesses. Interestingly, the level caps have been removed and this makes it slightly easier to fight level 25-35 orcs. Beyond level 35, things do get rather challenging, but that’s the point where the game asks you to spend cash to buy loot boxes. So that’s all rather expected.

The game basically requires you to do the same jump, block and slash routine you did the first time. Irritatingly, the HUD part that provided the mana (called focus) gauge has now been replaced by something called Elven Rage (which becomes Raise Dead towards the end). While Elven Rage is useful, it’s not strictly necessary to provide it so much space. The focus gauge is now a bar on the right of the minimap, while another thing called might (which wasn’t measurable in the last game) shows up on the top left. Add to it arrow counters and you have a truly confusing and complicated HUD.

Coming to the Nemesis system, it has been upgraded. Enemies can now not only challenge you directly, but ambush you. Depending on the level of the ambusher, you can find yourself with a sweet new orc captain recruit, or running for your life while being chased by a super-powerful one. Annoyingly, the game only lets you recruit enemies of your own level or lower, so trying out higher level areas (Gorgoroth for instance) before you have hit that level is rather pointless. Sure, you could shame them, which reduces their level. But then you’d fight them again. Fancy fighting the same orc multiple times ? You only have to wait until one or more orcs betray you and then come after you. Or you kill a recruit’s blood brother, which will guarantee a betrayal.

Apart from this new mechanic, the game retains the old captain vs captain system. I found these rather entertaining, though, because the swordplay isn’t so hard, I didn’t always have to send captains against captains. Instead, I could take on most directly without even inquiring about their weaknesses once I was about level 20 and up.

The really really new thing though, is the fortress. There are five fortresses in the game, of which you can capture and defend up to four. The fifth is a bit more complex, given that it can be captured only at the end of Act III and capturing it pretty much ends the actual story and begins the grind towards the true ending. For the remainder though, the strategy is simple. Target the bodyguards of the war chiefs and take them out, recruiting them or plain killing them, to weaken the warchief. Take out the warchiefs (it is almost impossible to recruit them because they’re usually 2-5 levels higher than you) and then take out the Overlord (who is around 10 levels higher). This was one mechanic I truly loved, since I could prepare my forces slowly and then attack in a huge orgy of orc killing. I didn’t always succeed, and in fact, died twice taking Seregost. But the end rewards were breathtaking.

Lastly, Talion’s abilities have been expanded. While some, such as the ability to summon a graug, are really helpful in combat, others like drake flying, aren’t. That said, the game smoothens a lot of things that were actual issues with SoM, while retaining what’s good, such as shadow strike. All in all, gameplay is a blast, though it should be savoured like aged wine – bit by bit, lest it get too boring.

Rating – 4.5/5

Conclusion – The storyline is tepid, the characters are under-utilised and the game makes you grind for the true ending. But, BUT, the gameplay is awesome. The graphics are pretty good, and bring out the novelty of Mordor beautifully. Most of all, the game remains deliciously unpredictable, making one domination simple and the next very, very tough. You never know which combination of problems you’ll be up against, and this keeps the game fresh, until at least the end of Act III. If you’ve played SoM, this game should be an incremental improvement that will bring back good memories and help you forge new ones. On the other hand, if you haven’t played the first one, prepare to deal in some very personal and non-friendly issues with orcs, even if the end result is something of a letdown.

Overall Rating – 3.5/5

Recommended – Yes!

Downtime -sorry!

Coding isn’t my forte, and I typically leave updates hanging until the last moment. It just so happened that one particular database update suffered a similar fate, and when I got around to it, i forgot to update the wp-config.php file. Hence the downtime.

It’s fixed now, but I still owe an apology. Hopefully I’ll be wiser from the next time onwards.

Thanks for your patience!

A Small Tribute to Chester Bennington

A few months ago, I had written about how Linkin Park’s music was changing, and how I was evolving along with it. Back then, the entire album – One More Light – had not been released and I couldn’t speak authoritatively. Now it has been, and I can say that it is every bit as “new” as I’d  expected it to be. Actually, a lot more.

But this isn’t a review of the album, it’s about Chester, the lead vocalist of  the band. He’s gone. Soon after the album was published, he chose to leave, forever. His issues and his decision have been the subject of the grapevine ever since, and along with the likes of Micheal Jackson, his passing will always be a matter of some controversy.

But it isn’t about the actual reasons. He had his reasons, and let’s leave it at that. Wherever he is, he is at peace now, and we should be at peace with his life. There is no foul play, and so let’s not drag up his ghost just to create gossip.

Instead, I want to talk about his impact. Having never imagined that a guy like Chester could leave, I was always expecting a new video or a new solo to come out. Maybe in a few months, maybe in a year. Chester would be there, and would lend his  soulful vocals. Vocals filled with bitterness, pain and angst. But lately, also with peace and realization. Too many people have talked about how this meant he was finally approaching final peace, but let’s not speculate. What he did was evolve, and I would have looked forward to more evolution. Sadly, there will be none.

There will be no more of the binge listening that followed every release, the pain that resonated from the songs through my own  soul. There would no longer be the complex feelings that came when one song shifted to another and the tough decision of whether to hit the rewind button or continue listening to the current song. It would no longer be possible to imagine my own life as a Chester melody, of pain, spiritual  end and rebirth. There would be no more dissonant resonance, because the voice will be silent for ever now.

It’d be easy at this point to point to one song and say – this was what Chester was for me. But he was many  things. He was Crawling in my skin/Wounds that would not heal, he was Sometimes I remember the darkness of my past, sometimes he was Leave out all the rest, and sometimes he was I didn’t realize that I was going too fast/I woke up riding my car.

Each album, each song has a different colour, it brought different images to my mind. Images that defined me, or made me aware of what I could not be, should not be. They gave me pain and allowed me to relate in verse what I felt in raw emotions. They allowed me to imagine situations -good and bad – and how I would deal with them. Not a line was extra, not a line was frivolous and useless. There would be songs that I would purposefully listen to on loop on some days, and there would be songs that I would avoid. not because they were bad, but because they felt like opening the damp door of a sarcophagus. Not disgusting, but scary nonetheless.

This is all gone now, and Chester, wherever you are, you deserve my thanks. Perhaps this will get drowned out in the hundreds that thank you, and express their love for you in ways I cannot. I never could attend a concert, hold your hand, or even see you in front of me. Never got an autograph, never got anything that would have told you I exist. But this isn’t about me. and this isn’t a competition,  and I’m sure you know that. You never were one to fight for the top slots, but ended up there nonetheless. Perhaps that is what true talent and true emotions can do. Mine are true as well, and when I say there never will be another Chester, and another LP song that wrung my heart dry the way your songs did, mate, I mean it.

Rest in Peace, Chester.

The Road Out of Tehatta – Part VII – Exit Procedures and The Memories That Be

Today is Mahalaya, the 19th of September 2017. As I sit in Kolkata and the evening turns to night around me, Puja fever is in full swing. There are a few more days to go before my own holidays begin, but they’ve already begun in Tehatta. For the people on the other hand, it would not be so much Durga Puja as the Laxmi Puja that follows. Nobody could explain why the latter is more important there, but it is. My colleagues, of course, would not be in Tehatta, but in various districts of the state, or even outside. There they would be celebrating in their own way, even as I enjoy these holidays in my own style. Tehatta would celebrate in one way, my colleagues in their own ways, me in my own. But when this season dies out, they will return to Tehatta, and I will still be here, in Kolkata.

The choice of course, was always my own. It is stupid of a young man to say that the decisions he makes in life have been foisted upon him by circumstances. No matter how much I whined about folks at home wishing me to work close to my residence; no matter how much I talked about needing to stay in Kolkata to do my PhD; no matter anything else- the fact remains that I wanted to return to Kolkata, and did so. In fact, from the very first day I went to Tehatta, I knew that one day I would want to return and return after having achieved something.

I don’t know if I did manage to achieve anything. Yes, my bank balance appears a lot fuller. Also, my heart is full of memories, only a few of which I have pasted in my blog. But those were not what I had been sent there for. Did I really manage to help the students who studied there? Did I, with my faltering Bengali and poor knowledge of these students’ needs, really manage to do better than what someone who has risen from their background would have done ? Was the PSC right in reposing faith in a person like me -full of high concepts but with little grasp of reality ? I don’t know.

But Tehatta tolerated me, and grew on me. And when I chose to leave, I did so knowing full well the decision I was making was my own. I had my reasons, and explicating them here will not cork the bottle of nostalgia that is overflowing right now. Tehatta could have left me behind quickly, and if it did so, I would not have developed the memories I have. It could have stayed with me for so long that I would have made it a semi-permanent part of my life. But it did neither, or rather, I didn’t allow it to. Hence, I had joy and learnt a lot but also had a constant understanding that I was often counting the days till I would get a chance to move closer home. Such is life – it forces you to develop bonds before asking you to break them and move on.

With all these conflicting emotions, I must pen the last part of this series. One of the easier ways to do this would probably be just to enumerate the facts. I’ll start with those. You see, back when I had applied for PSC, I had also applied for CSC, the service that recruits teachers for sponsored colleges. But the interviews for the latter dragged on indefinitely – an entire year in fact – and when they concluded, it was another couple of months before I got my counselling. Still more months passed before the interview took place, and another before I could formally join the new institution. In between, I ended up spending half a year in Bhawanipur and a year and a half in Tehatta.

But it was never clear that I would be able to leave. Colleges in Kolkata – which I was aiming for – were pitiably few compared to the demand, and chances appeared slim. I didn’t know that I would secure a decent rank and due to a number of factors including my competitors’ preferences, would manage to secure an interview at one of the most reputed colleges of the city. Neither did I know that I would be selected, or that I would have to wear my sole (and soul) out getting the release from my Tehatta service. I didn’t know any of it, and so the service in Tehatta was focused on Tehatta only, coupled with the occasional googling of CSC to see if any updates had been posted.

As my service in Tehatta collapsed in a series of visits to Bikash Bhavan to obtain the release orders, I became acutely aware that very soon I would no longer be heading to Tehatta. No longer would I be planning my tickets well in advance, or chewing my nails wondering if I would get a seat in the unreserved compartments if the booking status turned up as “Waiting”. No longer would I make 5 hour journeys that sucked the juice out of my bones, but allowed me to experience Tehatta in all its glory. No longer would I be a member of the West Bengal Education Service, and be counted as a gazetted officer. I would lead a different life, albeit under the same education system of West Bengal.

It was then that I conceptualized the idea of penning my ideas. Even before I had obtained my final release orders, I was wondering what all I would pen down. Starting my writing in June, I kept working through the monsoon months. Today, in late September, with three months already done at my new institution, I am at the final stage of the series.

In this time, a lot has happened. My colleagues knew that I had been selected, and coaxed me into telling them that I had opted for a college that had an interview stage. When I got through the interview, they knew it was only a time before the Kolkata boy returned to Kolkata. And so it happened. I put in my papers and began the long process of obtaining the release. Thankfully, it was May by the time I put in my papers, and the academic year was almost over. I had finished my course for the two years (the third year didn’t exist yet) well in advance, and the students didn’t suffer. In fact, they were hardly coming to college at all after April. Since the time was so short, I didn’t tell them face to face that I was leaving. I don’t know what their reaction would have been, but somehow it required a little more courage than what I could muster. Maybe because this leaving was no transfer – I was leaving because I wanted to. How do I explain that ?

Anyhow, Tehatta didn’t demand much of me in my final days there. There were Part III exams going on, and this meant we had to go for invigilation on specific days. That was fine, for it gave me time to run around Bikash Bhavan. But it also meant I was hardly ever staying there, since the invigilation days were hardly back to back ones. My Tehatta experience had been curtailed already, and this added to the nostalgia. As my colleagues ran around and planned for the next academic year, I felt I was in limbo – waiting to leave one place but not knowing anything about the new one. I knew I had to leave, but I wanted to leave on a better note. Better in what sense? I couldn’t tell, but I guess a perfect goodbye doesn’t exist.

I gave up my camp on the last day of May. Economic logic told me that I hadn’t been staying there for over a month, and there was every possibility that I would get my release within June. It simply made no sense to hold onto the rooms for another month. I had already told the landlady of my intentions (disguised as transfer – why did I do that?). This fulfilled the one month notice requirement. True, I could have gone back on my statement at any moment, but then again, why should I ? Life was takin me away from Tehatta, and I simply had to go with the flow.

One day before the final one, I had been given invigilation duty. That, unbeknownst to me, was the last full day of work I did at Tehatta. It was awfully dull, staring at students and occasionally confiscating study material from them. This gave me occasion to roam around the campus, and marvel at all that had changed since I had arrived. We now had beautifully whitewashed walls, a gate with tiled designs, an entire second floor that was almost complete (sadly, as of writing, it is still not in use from what I hear), grounds that had been decorated (though exactly for what still remained unclear) and a functioning canteen. It was still dusty, and the halls were still quite empty. I had believed that one day these would be filled up. Maybe they will be, but I wouldn’t be there to see it.

As I roamed around, I also noted the classes and the small things that had made up my life as a teacher in Tehatta Government College. For one, the first room assigned for history classes was Room No. 3. It was the same number as the classroom where I had studied as an undergraduate student in Presidency. That Room No. 3 had become an icon of our existence. I couldn’t say whether this room would have the same impact on my students, but it had a special relevance for me nonetheless. This, despite it later being turned into  the Chemistry lab, and the history class being shifted upstairs, and then again because a smart classroom had to be created.

Another small but lovely part of my life was my locker number. Back when I had joined, there were far more lockers than teachers,  and I had a good amount of choice. I chose one on the top left, and didn’t notice the number at the time. Much later, while sorting the keys, I noticed that it was no. 86. The address of Presidency College was 86/1. Strange, but another part of my own undergrad life seemed to have appeared in Tehatta.

These small bits and pieces received their last ovations from me as I prepared to leave. Rules demanded that I hand over everything I had taken from the college, and this included locker keys and the lockers themselves. Naturally I did so. I also returned books that I’d borrowed – books that had often helped me more in my research than the books in RKM or other noted libraries. I also began answering questions about my impending departure in a stronger affirmative.

After I had wrapped up the exam, I began wrapping up camp. And there was a lot of wrapping up to do. For someone who had lived with the express belief that this camp could not be turned into a full-fledged home away from home (see an earlier part of the series for details), I had accumulated a lot of stuff. I packed up as much as I could on the night of the 30th of May, and informed the landlady that I would be leaving the next day. The mini truck that was to carry my stuff back arrived late, and we had about an hour or so to complete all the remaining packing and loading. This was duly done, the folks sent with the truck acting with miraculous (and reckless) haste. Over that one hour, I found innumerable things that I had only known existed but never bothered to actually use, and now was carrying back in mint condition. I also realized that most of my stuff had been sourced from Kolkata, which I had been aware of but still marveled at when it was all being packed up.

Packing done, I paid the remaining money to the landlord, officially bid them well and removed my locks from the doors. The landlord informed me that he already had a person waiting to move in in early June, and so I need not be sorry about leaving. I nodded, half in relief and half disheartened to know that my camp would soon have someone else living in it. The truck revved up and set off. I checked things again, then headed out for the last time. My days of survival in Tehatta – insofar as they involved living in camp – were over.

At that time, I believed I would be going to Tehatta more than once before finally bidding goodbye. But it was not to be. Between running to the new college, heading to Bikash Bhavan and dealing with other matters, I didn’t find any time to go there beyond what was utterly necessary. And so it happened that I turned up there only after I’d obtained my release orders, and only so I could get the college release from the OIC. That done, people wished me well and I was heading back to Kolkata again, not sure when I would visit Tehatta next. The students weren’t there that day, but one of them called me as I was just getting home. Blissfully unaware that I had left, he inquired about the exams and how he should prepare. For a moment, I wondered whether I should tell him that he won’t have AM sir when classes resumed. Again, I choked and cut the call.

Thankfully, the folks there didn’t forget me, and instead planned one last hurrah. In July I was informed that a small meeting was being organized. I knew it was a farewell ceremony, a farewell ceremony for the youngest member of the staff there. The date was fixed as 4th of August, and I confirmed that I would be going.

This time, I made the journey purely for nostalgia’s sake, and clicked more photos than I had done during the entire two years. No longer was I photographing for the college website, nor for facebook. These would be memories that would be mine and mine alone, and I wished to capture everything before they slipped away.

I was greeted at the college with a lot of enthusiasm, but also some sadness. But nothing prepared me for the farewell itself. I had seen farewells before, but they had always been for people who had served long and had become pillars of the institution. I had barely served for a year and a half. Yet here I was, being spoken of in terms that made me feel warm and also somewhat embarrassed. I was being given bouquets and gifts befitting a senior teacher. I was the center of attention from teachers whose farewells I’d expected to attend. But instead, I was the one leaving.

At the end, it was my turn to speak. I’m not a great speaker, except when I’m discussing history and am in class. Or outside class. Talk history with me for hours, and I’m game. But ask me to talk about myself or some other topic, and you’d be lucky to have a dozen words from me. But on this day, words flowed. I wanted to say a lot, but held back a lot too. Even then, I spoke for a good twenty minutes, speaking of what Tehatta had given me. I spoke of how it had taught me how to handle a lot of things I would never have learned if I hadn’t joined. I talked about how it felt to be part of a budding institution instead of being bogged down by heritage. I spoke of my experiences with the staff and how I probably wouldn’t get such a staff room again.

Yet at the very end, I had to admit that the decision was mine. I had wanted to leave, and so I was leaving. It was no compulsion, but my own free choice. That said, this was the best staff room I’d probably get in a long time, probably never again. It sounded like a contradiction, but I was simply being honest. It was a contradiction, and if I were to smoothen over things, I would be lying on the very last day. That contradiction, in fact, has still not been solved and now, since I have made my decision and face its consequences, I wish to hold onto it for old times’ sake.

And so I left for the last time. We had booked a vehicle, and could all go together. This made for compelling chatter, some on the current situation, some on people’s theatre, some on Sunil Gangopadhyay and some on the meaning of academics itself. These were conversations that daily college life didn’t permit, and I was happy to be part of one, my last one in this setting perhaps. But beyond that, I watched as the fields rolled by, and wondered why I hadn’t noticed their beauty before. I had seen them enough, and had marveled at some of the jute harvesting techniques, but never at jute fields awash in the glow of the dying sun. Maybe there was a metaphor hidden in there, one that my unpoetic mind couldn’t grasp. Whatever it was, that journey back was one I would remember for a long time.

This brings me to the end of my reminiscing about Tehatta. I could talk about a lot more – I could speak about the students and their pros and cons, I could speak about how people outsmarted the Indian Railways to get seats on the 4:26,  and how scandals and controversies didn’t spare Tehatta entirely. But let’s not pen every thought down. Let’s leave something for the mind to chew on,  and for me to tell anyone who would be interested. Maybe my grandkids, if I do have them.  But given how great a listener I am, I wouldn’t be surprised if they were more into talking with their girl/boyfriends than talking to an old man like me.

But anyway, Tehatta is over. I’m not going back, except maybe if some document is needed at some time. I’m never working there again. Maybe I’ll pass by, or even visit for a seminar. But that would be it. The Tehatta chapter in my life is over, and it brings mixed feelings with it. Diving back into the realm of feelings would make this already 3000+ essay even longer, and make for a still more intolerable read. So let’s not. But I can say this – Tehatta taught me a lot, both as a person and as a teacher. From my ability to speak Bengali,  to my understanding of the needs of students from semi-urban and rural backgrounds to my surviving in a new place and becoming accustomed to the ways of the countryside, everything is due to Tehatta and Tehatta alone. I just hope I have been of some use to Tehatta too.

 

The Road Out of Tehatta – Part VI – The Roads That Be – Part II – The Journey From

When I’d started writing this series, I hadn’t imagined that I’d be at Part VI by the time I actually came to the part that seems  to symbolize the title. To be honest, “Road out of Tehatta” doesn’t really mean the highway that leads to  Krishnanagar. It means a lot more than that, as would be obvious from the previous parts. And this part is by no means the last. Yet I’m writing this, so it must have something to do with the title right. Right. A lot with the title.

You see, Mersault takes the bus back to Algiers with a sense of having to get back to work. The bus I took back home, on the other hand, was one that took me away from work. It took me away from the free life of hardship and glory to the comfortable one that I had been used to for all my life. It also took me away  from the simplicity of life in Tehatta – where everything existed in a binary of survival and work – to the far more complex existence that was, and is, Kolkata. The city, or the megapolis as I call it, included my research, my social life (including my girlfriend) and a good amount of other things that I didn’t have to worry about in Tehatta. I was moving towards a complicated comfort.

Not that I regretted any of it. Moving towards home is a theme that has been romanticized by many poets, not least by one of my favourites, Amy MacDonald in her “Road to Home”. Timeless classics like Caledonia speak of coming home from faraway places, a feeling not very different from what I felt while heading back towards the city.

In fact, in a way I felt I was moving back up the ladder of civilization. Before you begin thinking that I’m disparaging Tehatta for being uncivilized, I’m not. I’m simply  saying that life there is not so complicated. In my scheme of things, my college would be located in a village, amid lush green fields and little else. Then I would come to Tehatta proper, a town that had the ambitions to become something much greater. Then came Krishnanagar, and other cities like Ranaghat and Barasat, which were cities or polis. They were large bustling beasts, but none could compare with the highly complex queen, Kolkata. Kolkata, no matter where you lived in West Bengal, was the core of everything, the megapolis.

Most people living in the megapolis harbor a singular dichotomy between the city and the village. This is why they try to take kash-flowers and place them in fancy earthen pots in the middle of a bustling city. Sure, the same is done in villages. But in villages, such flowers can be found in the vicinity. They don’t have to be artificially implanted in a setting that long forgot what nature truly looks like. Again, they head into the villages for picnics during winters. Here they post lovely stories about the heritage of Bengal, her unique culture and the way centuries have passed with little change. Oblivious to how governments, policies and even seasonal changes constantly keep village folk on the edge of their beds (and beds they are, not charpoys), these city folks speak of the timelessness of the villages, harbouring all that is good in society, against the corrupting influences of the city.

Such people are whimsical idiots. But once I was one such idiot, believing that the village was just a polar opposite. I have never been particularly interested in villages for their timelessness, to be honest, but I was still part of the mold. And I remained part of the mold as long as the journeys I took involved air-conditioned coaches with pre-fab meals and desperate attempts to connect to the internet so I could reach facebook or whatever the fuck I wanted to access.

These journeys to and from Tehatta however, were different. For one, I wasn’t simply travelling between two well-known destinations. Rather, I was moving from a small place, to a bigger one, to a still bigger one. So I had to understand each place and make it serve my ends. This was especially important because time was vital.  People heading to the villages can stop and admire the fields all around them if there is a jam on the highway. I found little to admire in lush green fields, and anyhow seen too many such fields to be particularly impressed by them during jams. More to the point, I probably had the next day, and the one after that, already planned out and a delay meant I would be reaching the city late. If I did so, I’d end up on a different train, and everything else would be delayed.

This was so especially because the journey from was somewhat different from the journey to. For one, I usually returned with some of my colleagues. These colleagues weren’t fixed, since they also went to different places at different times, and would join me according to their itinerary. What I actually got was a revolving cast of people, each with their own preferences and ideas about how the hidden forces behind the transportation system worked. At first, I saw them as beacons of knowledge in a vast desert of danger – danger to timings and physical energy reserves that is.

As time went on though, I soon realized that some folks’ conception of time was a bit too rigid for me. I needed some amount of comfort. This was the reason why I had chosen to stay in Tehatta for part of the week. So hanging onto overhead rods in a bus chock full of folks, or getting knocked about by vendors and passengers on a busy train while holding onto the clothes-holder shaped overhead supports, was just not my cup of tea. Naturally, the details of the journey back evolved along with my ideas (and those of my co-travellers).

Initially, I used to book the hazarduari back to Kolkata, ensuring that I reached the station by 7pm, when it arrived. I intended to take a quick rest at my camp before heading out to catch an evening bus. Things quickly backfired though, and I  found myself rushing to Howlia to get a bus that would take me to the station in time. And I barely made it in the end.

Thereafter, I junked the idea of taking a quick rest and instead decided to head back home just after finishing college. Initially, this meant catching the Bama-Khyapa, or one of a number of special buses that had a reputation for getting you to Krishnanagar fast. Almost all of these were of the Karimpur variant, and depending on the time, you had to catch the bus, irrespective of the crowding involved. On  some days, such crowding was excessive and it was a mighty pain to dance to the bus’s tune in a cramped setting.

In fact, the very first time I headed back from Tehatta, I learned what crowding can do to you. I had to submit my salary documents to Krishnanagar in order to initiate my salary payments, and had been allowed to leave the college somewhat early by the OIC. I took a toto to the bus stand (PWD it was I think) and caught a bus to Krishnanagar. Back then I used to carry two bags – my old backpack and a bag in which I carried clothing  and other necessities of survival. On this occasion, the bus was super-crowded, with the conductor assuring me that a seat would be found for me sometime, at some stop. Being rather credulous, I boarded and managed to place the backpack in the overhead holder. But there was no place to keep my clothes bag. For one whole hour, I was forced to hold onto the bag as it slid under me, surviving curses from my hand and anyone who wished to move up or down the aisle.

Such experiences were repeated later as well.  As I learned though, asking people where they would disembark and keeping your bag as light as possible were among the few things you could do to make your life a little easier. Also, you could try and catch buses that would not coincide with the school closing periods. That could be earlier than the school timings or later, depending on how much  work you had on that particular day. Much much later, I also learned that you could catch the Palashipara buses from Jitpur more itself, and get a much better chance of landing a seat just after embarking. Eventually, I settled for the Chandana, a yellow and green beauty that allowed me to avoid the school rush and also ensure that I reached in time for the train.

Coming to the train, I realized that getting the Hazarduari after catching a train with my  colleagues meant waiting at the station for anywhere between 1 and half to 2 hours. This was clearly not an optimal way of doing things. To push things up from the sub-optimal, I began catching local trains. They were marginally cheaper (a lot cheaper in fact, but at those prices, everything does seem marginal). Trouble was, you could catch a train at 4:26pm and then one at 6:32pm.  Between them was the Lalgola Passenger, which was a royal pain to be in. For one, the train pulled in chock full of people who stayed on and made you navigate the aisles with the expertise of a gymnast. Getting a seat on the Lalgola was akin to winning a state lottery, and naturally, people like me were seldom even on the drawing list.

As time went on, I also realized that the 4:26 had the same problems.  For one, it attracted horribly large crowds, and getting on them was a veritable battle of champions. People who wished to climb up had to stand on either side like gladiators entering the ring, as those already on the train got down. Then there would be the stragglers, who (barring children and women) would be dragged down and tossed away. Now the real battle began. The most athletic pranced into the coach and rushed to catch the best seats (and reserve as many as possible). Next came the second rung – people like me who were young, could do a fair bit of wrestling but didn’t have the skill needed to be at the top. We pushed in after them and rushed to take the middle seats. The remainder – the old, the infirm and anyone who had chosen to stand anywhere except the exact place where the coach doors stopped – had to clamber in at the end and get the “fourth seat”, ie the one where half your ass is on the seat and the rest is dangling dangerously off the edge.

The 4:26 was the clearest example of this. On days when the masters of the race were in the hunt and were on my side, I would get a rather decent seat. On days when they weren’t and I had made it to the station well in time, I would get a decent seat. On days when neither checked out, I would be sitting on the fourth, wondering when one person would leave and I would get to move up. Not that that always checked out. You see, Indian trains don’t have a charter of manners. So, people getting on after you would “reserve” seats one through three and when one got off, you still remained on the fourth. I’ve done my fair bit of fighting to civilize these idiots, but in a country where you get to ride a train legally by paying just 43% of your actual fare (as declared by the railways themselves), how much change can you expect?

Anyhow I realized that even with all these problems, the 6:32 was a far better option. On more than one occasion I could get a window seat even without being a pro local train boarder. Even when I did not, the cooler climes of the evening and the generally more laid-back attitude of fellow travelers made it a far more pleasant journey. This was, in terms of trains, the ideal to be aimed for.

If that failed, there was the 7:22pm train. This was an even less crowded train,  since there was wide consensus that people with families should not get home later than 9 in the night. On  this train, fighting for window seats was far less, and unless you wanted to actually get hold of the window seat in the direction of the train, you wouldn’t have to fight at all. People lazed around and looked detached from the goings on around them, as if resigned to the berating their wives would inevitably give them for getting home late. Or maybe they didn’t have wives, and instead were casually wondering if they had enough stocks of alcohol in order to imagine the company they might have had if they had checked all the social boxes up to that point of their lives. Or they were like me, who were wondering whether the train would move fast enough for me to get to the metro station in time for the 9:55 metro out of Dum Dum.

Now there is a huge debate over whether it is ideal to return home by train or bus. There were no train lines running to Tehatta, and one bus at least was part of the entire journey of each one of us. But beyond Krishnanagar, the debate intensified. I had found that catching a bus allowed you to relax and enjoy a far more airy journey, even if it didn’t save a lot of time. On the other hand, the proponents of buses constantly complained that buses were riskier, wasted more time and were less comfortable compared to trains. Their arguments regarding time I accept, but the rest ?

I mean, compared to the hard-plastic seats of the trains, you’d be far better off even on the narrow seats of the average long-distance bus. And if you were lucky to catch a government bus, you’d have a large single seat to share with your co-passengers. Unless you were traveling with someone the girth of me (no comments please), you’d have plenty of space even if you were travelling on the middle seat. Also, the buses had seats all facing in the direction of the bus, and on average, the windows were larger than those on the trains. So it was a far more comfortable journey in terms of ambient temperature, even if you spent a substantial part standing.

How did I realize all this ? Courtesy of another subset of my colleagues. These were the people who lived closer to Tehatta than I did, and found it more convenient to travel by bus than train because trains would usually force them to catch another toto or bus to reach home. Over time, I realized that once you got a seat on the bus, there would be –

a.       No one standing in front of you

b.       No one asking you to give more space

c.       A window near you, even if you weren’t on the window seat

d.       Emptier aisles due to longer distances between stops

e.       Lesser babies (I have a personal dislike of screaming babies on public transport).

Exceptions existed, and more than once I had to take a bus at 6 in the evening, hanging onto the second step and waiting desperately for Phulia to arrive so I could get some space to stand. Then again, there were days when parents encouraged kids to puke so they could have seats. Urggghh!

But within six months of joining Tehatta, I had moved from the Hazarduari to local trains and then to buses. Starting out with some variant of the Gouranga from Pantha Tirtha, I would reach Kolkata within 4 hours. Combined with the one-hour bus ride to Krishnanagar (Pantha Tirtha lies on Krishnanagar’s stretch of the National Highway), this made for a full five hours of travel. Could I save half to one hour using the train? Yes, but why should I ? I’d rather prefer to come home at 9 than at 8:30, because, you know, I don’t have a wife yet.

Eventually, things got into a rhythm. I learned that there was one special bus that ran from Mayapur to Kolkata, carrying all sorts of devout and almost bald people. This bus stopped at Pantha Tirtha but you really had to run in order to catch it. And catch it we did, including the times when you had to throw the cash into the toto driver’s hand and run to the bus before it left.

And then there was of course, the legendary direct bus. I’d been told that such a bus existed, but I hadn’t believed such rumours. Until I saw it myself. A CTC bus (now CSTC), this ran from Karimpur to Kolkata, with a half hour stop at Pantha Tirtha. Once you caught it and got a seat (usually not before Krishnanagar), a Rs. 100 ticket would get you directly to Baguiati. In other words, the multi-stage five hour journey was melded into a single one, and you didn’t have to worry about getting seats again and again. Also, since each change of vehicle introduced another element of delay and uncertainty, this bus was the most direct and time-saving solution I could find, even though it didn’t save a lot of time over the trains on the days when the trains ran on time.

But this essay isn’t simply a long story about how I got from one vehicle to another. That would be immensely boring, and also would tell only half the story. Hence, I would leave out the running over the tracks to catch the train or toto, the endless waiting when trains came late and the smart tricks I learned for getting seats on trains and buses (beyond the ones I’ve mentioned). Instead, let’s talk of what the journey meant to me.

For one thing, it meant going home. The journey was long, and thinking about going home all this time could be a bit of a bore. So, I had to think of other things, and not ones that I would do when I actually got home. Instead, I would look at the rapidly darkening horizon and the houses beside the highway (or the tracks). What did I think?

I wondered what those people were up to. Most of them would have smaller worlds, ones which did not include much beyond their own homes. I had learned that the farther you went from cities, the more the people became localized, rooted to their homes and localities in ways that would be unimaginable to city folk. In cities, you are constantly on the move. I myself have lived in half a dozen cities, and more houses than I can bother to count. But these people have lived in the same region for generations. Women would marry and move to the husband’s house, and then that would become their permanent place of residence. Women worked much less than men, so these places would grow on them till they became the homes with which they identified themselves. Men on the other hand, would work some distance away from their homes. On rare occasions, these would be large cities like Kolkata, but would more often be the surrounding areas. There they would have networks of relatives and friends who would be interested in specific things. Discussions would revolve around the local, with some amounts of the national and even the international thrown in. But their worlds would be small, tidy and with a finite set of concerns.

Then there were the people idling during the beautiful red evenings. I had been one of them myself during my younger days. I wasn’t usually idling so much as playing something. As the sun’s warmth reduced, we would descend on the grounds and play cricket, badminton and whatnot. We would play and chat and laugh as the evening moved from the light yellow to the inkish black, before heading in and doing such boring things as homework. And think of how we would play again, in school the next day and in the evening, at home.

Maybe the people I saw had such thoughts. I knew for a fact that people in the villages had a far greater love of sports. This was necessary for basic survival, and also because a lot of the jobs they sought – police, ITBP, etc – required a high level of physical fitness. Sometimes I wished I could join them. Surely they would play better than me, and would have some choice slang for my lack of skill. But that would still make my happy, for I would be going back to my days in school.

I also saw people sitting and chatting on rooftops. Sometimes they would be drinking tea, sometimes playing badminton. They were usually girls, but I saw a fair number of boys too. I knew that these people had probably woken up from a refreshing sleep, and were planning on spending a lazy evening before heading in and preparing for the next day. They had their own worlds, and in their worlds, work and play were all close at hand. They were inextricable parts of daily life, not sacrificed to one another on the altars of unemployment or workaholism. Maybe it was not so rosy after all. But when the sun’s fading glow takes you back decades, things do appear rosy from a CTC bus’s window.

Did I feel sorry for myself? I wouldn’t use the word sorry, for it would mean that I wasn’t happy where I was. Yes, I did yearn for the simpler life, but that didn’t mean I wouldn’t want to be where I actually was. For I was going home after having worked, worked honestly and well. I don’t know about other people who work, but for me, going home after work is extremely satisfying. It seems to give me a sense of pride and a right to sit on the seat I am on at the moment. I know that even if I didn’t do anything, I could still take the ride if I paid. But I was going back after doing what society expected me to do. I could hold my head high and relax, and know that I was a contributing member of society.

Beyond that, there was also the feeling summarized by Robert Frost in his poem. Yes, I was going home, but it wasn’t exactly round the bend. Instead, there were miles to go, both literally and figuratively. I would pass across various areas – villages, towns, cities – on my way and maybe I’d get down and change my vehicle along the way. I would interact, very briefly and only in passing – but I would interact all the same and when I did, that would also be part of the overall journey. I was doing what had to be done, and whatever the problems and impediments, I would get home after doing my work. Many would baulk at the prospect, but not me. What I was doing was glorious.

All of this begs the question though – did I like the prospect of making the journey ? Considering it from the Kolkata at-home perspective, probably not. There were too many variables on that journey, and even one of them could serious fuck up the whole journey. What had been anticipated as a comfortable reminiscence of existence would turn into a desperate shoving game for an hour or more. What had been anticipated as a journey to an evening cup of tea would become one to a very late dinner. Above all, what had been anticipated as a relaxing journey may well turn into an exhausting one, both mentally and physically.

Yet all considered, I didn’t regret the journey while on the journey. You could say I didn’t have a choice, but I have seen enough people bitching about the journey they make to know that a lot of people would very much prefer if they didn’t have to travel to work at all. For me, travelling to work has always been part of the work itself. Tehatta was no exception, and while I’m happy that the journey is behind me, I can also say that all that time travelling taught me a lot about life – and reminiscing about life – that I would otherwise have learned.

A Developed Utopia

We love comforting narratives that instill in us a sense of schadenfreude, especially the type that tell us that we are doing better than the ones we don’t like. Maybe not a whole lot better, and maybe the guys we dislike are still way ahead of us. But we still tend to take pleasure in thinking they aren’t doing that great right now, and we are.

This is the familiar narrative that the China-India economic competition has fallen into. Time was when we used to look the other way when questions of Chinese economic growth came up. Both the countries were growing, but one was growing steadily and had a head start. You’d say that was India based on history, but it was really China. In fact, ever since the reforms that occurred roughly around the time of Tiananmen Square, their economy has been growing rapidly.

Gone were the days of Mao, when the peasant was all that was there to China. Within decades, this peasant utopia had transformed itself into the manufacturing hub of the world. Countries,  ranging from the US to even India, outsourced their production to China. Initially it was just the small and simple stuff – nuts and bolts if you like – that came from China. The Chinese picked up the tab themselves, eventually manufacturing such stuff themselves and pushing it into other emerging markets like India, Indonesia, Vietnam and others.

Those were the days when you would disparage Chinese goods for their poor quality and still lower pricing. But India is famous for lapping up anything that is cheap, regardless of what it may do for competitors’ pockets or their own health. So we lapped up all the Chinese “branded” – fake branded that is – flashlights, toys, plastic equipment and so on. These were things India could easily make, but we simply preferred to import from China, often through dubious routes through Nepal and the North-East.

Over time, the orders from international buyers grew, including the humble ordinary Indian, and China could afford to upgrade its know-how. It began making motherboards, chipsets, sophisticated electronics and so on. For Western countries, initially. Then, as would be inevitable, it began making these on its own. Manufacturers like Foxconn, which produced goods for Motorola and Samsung, began to produce goods for Chinese startups like Huawei, Xiaomi, Oppo, and so on. I’m naming only smartphone companies here because they seem to be the most glamorous, but this know-how has spread to virtually every part of the manufacturing sphere.

Over time, this ensured that China was able to generate a steady income and produce more and more jobs for its humungous population. Along with its one-child policy, this ensured that support for the Communist regime survived, along with hundreds of people who lived on meagre wages. Sweatshops became a special feature, though even here change was apparent. Wages rose, the state gradually began regulating the market. Despite the significant leeway that the Chinese government still provided (including subsidies), these ensured that living standards rose and prosperity grew.

It also meant production costs went up. China was faced with the problem of ensuring that the market continued to expand at the same click while wages and prices rose. This was inevitable, since every developing country in the world has gone through this phase. For some, like Germany, this process meant imperial expansion leading to the First World War. For others, like the US, this meant indirectly colonizing an entire hemisphere and ensuring that any government remotely freedom-loving was crushed and replaced by a pliant military junta.

But China did not have such possibilities. For one, whereas Germany and the US had risen to power at a time when the world itself was undergoing the Industrial Revolution, China had come to the market at a time when these countries were already way ahead. In a way, the countries of the West offloaded their problems to China, and China was eager to lap it all up. Now China was faced with the same problems, and it had no one to offload them to. Or so it seems.

You see, we haven’t talked of India yet. What did India do? India followed a socialist model that had the unique capacity of ensuring a basic standard of living for everyone while putting the onus of ensuring this on the state instead of the market. The state would provide all the subsidies and rations needed for the poor to survive, while sustaining the complex and difficult economy that ensured these very people didn’t get the jobs that would make them self-reliant. You could argue that self-reliant people aren’t always well-fed, or happy, or in any way at an optimal level of existence. But they don’t depend on the state for everything, especially when the state itself is capricious and corrupt.

In structural terms, India followed what is called an Import Substitution Model. It meant that India would ensure it produced as much of everything as possible and so remove the colonial dependence on foreign imports. This was something it shared with China. Neither country had been especially favourably treated by the West, and even though India didn’t have a Communist government, it still had to go through the nightmare of the PL-480 scheme. So India sought to produce everything, with mixed results. In case of agriculture, the Green Revolution ensured – and still ensures – such economically unviable schemes as the Mid-day Meal and rice at Rs.2/kg. Food security became a reality, even if the mix of nutrients wasn’t always optimal.

But when it came to manufacturing, there was no industrial revolution. India focused on big industry, and state industry, and the two became one. So large steel plants, coal factories, dams and suchlike began to dot the Indian landscape, creating jobs for thousands but also  ensuring that vital manufacturing sectors like consumer goods, remained untapped.

It is said that if you sow the wind, you reap the storm. It is a Chinese proverb and India learnt it the hard way. Today we have a world-class heavy manufacturing industry, from cars to other equipment. These are exported the world over. So are foodgrains and meats, especially beef. But what about other goods? Consumer goods manufactured initially by small enterprises with low levels of sophistication and later followed by larger ones like the Chinese smartphone giants?

This hasn’t come to pass. We can and do manufacture the small goods – I’m talking flashlights and batteries again – but we haven’t managed to leverage the labour potential to develop sophisticated industries. Whereas China’s mix of primary and secondary sector has steadily moved towards the latter, we have had a more dubious record. Since the liberalization, we have managed to move towards the tertiary or service sector but the manufacturing sector has been neglected. IT companies have become all the rage, but the basic fundamentals of manufacturing have grown at rates that may best be described as the Hindu rate of growth.

Given this situation, our per capita income has shown improvement, but not so much on the back of manufacturing as the Chinese economy. With agriculture once again showing signs of stagnating, and the service sector capable of generating only so many jobs, there is still plenty of space that can be utilized for the manufacturing sector.

This has led to some ironical developments. About a decade back, Indian smartphone companies entered the market. The likes of Micromax set the market ablaze by cutting down on margins and of course, sourcing all their stuff from China. In case of one company – Lava – this became so obvious that tech review companies openly called the models by their own Chinese names rather than the rebranded ones Lava used. All of this made perfect sense. India did not have the ecosystem needed to make sophisticated electronics, but a market ready to consume some. Where do you go ? China of course.

But now the reverse is happening. Chinese companies, with far greater experience and patent portfolios, are moving into the Indian market. Despite the patriotic whining that we see from some quarters, it is all too obvious that the Chinese are looking for new markets given the increasing saturation of Western markets, and India provides one. They keep prices cheap, features rich and durability low. Indians lap it all up.

But there has also been a greater structural shift. Chinese companies have begun manufacturing in India, using Indian labour. This is not to say they manufacture everything. A good amount is imported, and a good amount is assembled. But still, manufacturing plants are being opened by the likes of Xiaomi and Foxconn. Beyond obvious PR value, this has an important implication – Chinese companies are doing what Indians, for all their import substitution, failed to do – utilize Indian labour in sophisticated sectors of manufacturing.

Today, this makes good economic sense for Chinese companies. Rather than import from China, they can make the phones at far lower cost in India itself and ensure a greater chunk of the still growing Indian market. This is vital to the Chinese, because as I have pointed out, they face the challenge of finding new markets at a time when their own labour’s wages and costs are going north. Made in India is becoming cheaper than Made in China.

Chinese tapping of our demographic dividend in the sector the Indian government has long championed as leading to self-sufficiency may be somewhat bemusing. But it has important lessons. For one, it is clear that structurally, the Indian and Chinese markets are at vastly different positions. The Chinese market is nearing the point where it makes the jump from developing to developed. As ambitious schemes such as the One Belt One Road scheme suggest, the Chinese today have the financial muscle and technical know-how, not to mention international clout, to push through grand schemes. This becomes important because their core sector – manufacturing – has taken them as far as it possibly can, and structural shifts are needed. These could be afforded by offloading some of the manufacturing to less developed countries – such as India – while keeping the more sophisticated and higher-paying tech jobs.

Remember Japan ? The country began modernizing in the late 19th Century and by the 1950s, had reached a similar point. Its manufacturing prowess was no longer capable of sustaining it. So it shifted to research and higher-end jobs while offloading actual manufacturing to South Korea. This fueled Korea’s growth as a manufacturing centre, eventually giving rise to such tech giants as LG and Samsung.

But the China-India story is not so simple. Remember that India already has a well-developed tech sector, and would come up with her own tech solutions. Already, there is some amount of research into manufacturing processes taking place in India, and it is bound to grow. China can never be so sure that India would stick to the lower end of the spectrum.

But such schadenfreude should still not be comforting. Inevitably, the Chinese dragon would slow down and run out of gas. Offloading and international partnerships would help it chug along for a while, but the slowdown is inevitable. When that happens, China will be faced with the prospect of moving to higher levels of manufacturing and research – including the tertiary sector – with probably lesser jobs than what manufacturing could provide. This would again create the problem of demographic dividend, one that China never managed to solve fully anyway. At such a juncture, China would begin to face the problems of developed countries – low economic growth, specialization into few fields, a weakening and increasingly outsourced manufacturing sector, growing unemployment and eventually, a large number of old people who fueled China’s growth during the boom years and would now demand sustenance in old age. If it can undergo the transition to a specialized, finance-centric and research-centric developed economy, China will thrive. If it can’t, it’ll end up in the infamous depressions that gripped the Asian tigers in the 1990s.

If this is what developed China would look like, what about India? India would get a chunk of the jobs the Chinese can no longer sustain, and probably the know-how to obtain some more jobs. Maybe it will begin exporting more goods, and get more FDI and FII. But would it be enough to push India to the position China finds itself in?

No. China grew through a painful process of learning and picking up where others left off. India will not get the same opportunities of learning and working, simply became the global economy is increasingly becoming conservative. China’s formative period didn’t include crippling recessions and protectionist policies like those of Donald Trump. Neither did they include credit crunches and downsizing of the type we see today.

So we will have to chart a different path to becoming a developed economy. We will have to find jobs for the secondary sector while ensuring that the primary sector gradually becomes leaner but also more productive. We will have to ensure that we get the know-how while developing our own capabilities. These capabilities include simpler laws, easier access to credit, greater infrastructure and so on. This would fuel both FDI and also domestic growth, which today can often be interconnected. Finally, we will have to give up the dream of a tertiary-sector driven economy and understand that this sector can at best be the handmaiden, not the queen. It will grow, but it too will have to become more focused upon developing the other two sectors than outsourcing to US companies.

If we can do all this, we can also reach the position China finds itself in today. Is it a happy destination? No destination in economics is happy, and in that sense, seeing a developed economy as a happy one is utopian. However, if we can get where China is today, we can at least have greater GDP, better per capita income, more access to basic services and healthcare and a society less dependent on the caprices of the state. The demographic problem will still not be solved, but we would have utilized a significant chunk of the dividend that exists today. At that juncture, maybe we would be able to solve the problems China faces today in our own way, in a different global economic scenario. Or we may not, and would sink into depression and eventual economic contraction.

But we have to get to where China is first. And for that, we have many miles to go.

The Road Out of Tehatta – Part V – The Roads That Be – Part I – The Journey To

Remember the part where I had fantasied about living a life alone, in a city with a small  apartment to call my own ? How it’d somehow seemed inspired from Camus ? Well, Camus also wrote about the protagonist, Mersault, heading off on a long bus  ride to his destination. There was little description of the bus  ride itself, except that perhaps it was dusty and hot, and the guy would have dozed off and woken up wondering if the ride was over yet. He would have perhaps made good use of the few stops  that the bus made, refilling on water and what few snacks were available.  He would have also wondered if he was getting late, and thought “fuck that” and would have dozed off again. But the dozing off would not have been comfortable because the guy next to him would  have hogged the space, and the poor protagonist would have been slipping off the seat again and again. And when he reached, he would be a quarter tired, a quarter rested, and half wondering what he would have to do next.

Actually, Camus didn’t elaborate at all. Mersault got on a bus, dozed off and got down.  That’s all there is to the bus ride. Given Camus’ style of writing, it is perhaps not surprising. But that doesn’t stop me from daydreaming here, sitting in front of the computer with a bottle of beer and the task of penning down all I know and felt during my days in Tehatta. But why do I bring this up ? Because before today, I had so often juxtaposed my own experiences onto Mersault’s none too memorable bus ride. But unlike Mersault, long bus rides had become a far more integral part of my life.

As I have mentioned before, the ride to Tehatta is a multi-part affair, with each part lending its own characteristic flavor to the whole affair. More importantly, there are few parts where it is mandatory to take a single mode of transport time and again, though it is very likely that you’d develop your own preferences. Also, within a single mode of transport – it is extremely likely that you’d develop a favorite bus or train, and stick with it over the jibes of your colleagues and the curses of your own body.

But where do I begin now ? Do I provide a chronological list of experiences beginning with me setting out, and ending when I reached (and the reverse during the return journey) ? Or do I take a more hazy  approach to things, letting my mind wander to whatever good memories come along ? Perhaps the historian should follow the timeline strictly. In  this history of my Tehatta though, I don’t want to be a professional. Let me wander, and bear with me as I do.

Early mornings have never been exactly romantic moments for me. Back when I was in school, it meant getting ready and getting through the gate before the gate closed. During my Tehatta days, it inevitably meant balancing a grumpy body with the uber-professional drivers of the Ola  cab service that I used to get to the Kolkata railway station. More than once, I would take too much time doing something and end up  with a cancelled trip.

But more than the incessant fear of cancellations and problems, what I would regret more is that I never got the “heading away from home” feeling. Instead, all I felt was that that day I would probably have to deal with all the problems I’d left behind in Tehatta the last time around, the classes I would take, and the journey itself.

Ola journeys occurring in the timespan of a dozen to a dozen and half minutes aren’t meant to be very memorable. Neither are the endless rushes that I forced upon myself, running across the overbridge like a madman and cursing the Maitri Express for always hogging the first platform. But there was always one pause – a pause that I took even on the last day – the one to get a newspaper. To say that I am an addict of newspapers would be wrong, since many a day passes when I’m at home with newspapers right in the next room and I couldn’t be bothered to open them up. Yet there is something about train journeys that suggest opening a newspaper (“like a Sir’) and reading on your way to work. It just seemed right. So right in fact that regardless of the newspaper concerned, my knowledge of world affairs would inevitably be updated every time I went to Tehatta.

Having verified my name from the passenger list, I would quickly board the train, take my  seat and begin reading. I had a fascination for window seats, and would not part with them for my life. I still don’t, though now things are mainly limited to buses. The train would pull out, and I would be on my way.

Let the train ride speak for itself…..courtesy my lens

Two hours and some change later, I would be running down the platform (or up the platform) to get through the overbridge and board a toto for the bus stand. In  the final months, I’d realized that I was  exiting through the wrong gate. Safety be damned, the right exit required crossing in front of the train and if it meant less wait time, I would do it.

At the end of the toto ride, I was at the bus stop.  The new bus stop to be exact, since there was an old one as well. This new bus stop attracted people heading up the Karimpur, Kanainagar Ghat, Patikabari Ghat, Hridaypur,  Maheshnagar and Palashipara bus routes. You’d be accosted by bus conductors looking to overstuff their buses before heading out. I’d been warned not to take these buses even though they may save some time. Instead, I would head to the right counter and get my ticket.

Though this wasn’t without its problems. As I’d mentioned, the first time I’d gone to Tehatta, I’d been accompanied by a person working at my father’s office. The second time though, I was completely on my own. In other words, I had to choose my bus on my own and do so with precision. Now I’d been told that there are two major types of buses – the Patikabari type bus and the Karimpur type bus. Further, each type was divided into the Super bus, and the slower “route” bus. The best case scenario was to get hold of a Karimpur super and head out, being sure of reaching Tehatta PWD more (or PW more as it is actually called) in a little over an hour.

But for this I had to know which bus would go to Karimpur. I learnt that the first counter was for Patikabari buses, while the second catered to Karimpur buses (and various other categories, which I learnt later). I went to the counter and asked “Karimpur ?”, the way you ask a city bus in Kolkata whether it would go to Kasba.

The guy nodded, and told another – “একটা করিমপুর কাট” Looking at me, he said – “৫০ টাকা দেন ”। I was quite unpleasantly surprised,  since I knew the fare was a rather odd 28 rupees. I verified and was told that I had heard correctly. I bought the ticket, and headed up the vehicle’s  stairs, preparing to take my allotted seat.

For some reason, I felt that I should have asked about Tehatta specifically. Who knows how many interweaving roads there are ? Every road that goes to Karimpur may, after all, not take me to Tehatta. The previous journey had persuaded me that getting down in the middle of the journey would be akin to getting down amidst jute fields and brick manufacturing units. Needless to say, I wanted to be absolutely sure that I was jumping onto the right bus.

So I went back and asked – “দাদা, এটা তেহট্ট যাবে তো ?”

The guy was greatly surprised – “আপনি তো বললেন করিমপুর, এখন বলছেন তেহট্ট ?”

I was getting pretty concerned by now. Had I bought the ticket to a Karimpur bound non-Tehatta bus ?

“আমি তেহট্টই যাব। পি ডাবলু ডি মোর।“

“তা বলবেন তো।“

I returned my ticket and was issued a new one, with the balance between 50 and 28 rupees. I was finally sure that I was actually headed to Tehatta.

Back in hindsight, I realise that I had fretted over nothing. The route connecting Karimpur and Krishnanagar was the state highway, with buses being unable and unwilling to navigate any deviations. Hence, the road would inevitably have led me to Tehatta. In fact, barring the Hridaypur and Mahesnagar routes,  all the bus routes passed through Tehatta.

In fact, over time I decided that the Karimpur buses were probably not the best. You’d ask – what do I mean by best ? I can’t exactly say, but one criterion that came to my mind was the amount of space in the overhead bin. Now overhead bin is a term borrowed from airlines, and I should really speak of the overhead rack. This criterion persuaded me that it’d be better to take the Kanainagar Ghat bus called Radhagobindo. Or maybe it was called Chandrayan. The former was emblazoned on its side while the latter was at the front. I shall never know. Anyhow I always called it Radhagobindo because that was what the tickets said.

Now I’ve talked about the formation of preferences. Overtime, reservations in the 2S sections of the Hazarduari became a preference. As did the Radhagobindo. So much so that I would regularly inform my girlfriend (now my ex) that I’d successfully managed to board the Radhagobindo. If I did not, she was mortally worried about me, inquiring whether I had actually managed to catch a bus at all.

Interior of venerable Radhagobindo bus

Over time the conductors and the driver of the bus came to recognize me. True to my nature, I never bothered to find out their names, or what they did apart from running the bus. This was a part of my life that was purely instrumental, and I would have little use of the information even if I obtained it. Looking back though, those faces should have had names attached to them. My memories would somehow be incomplete without that information, as I realized on the last trip. But could I, a regular for over a year and a half, ask without shame the names of those whom I’d come to form a friendly – albeit cynically pragmatic – relationship ? The names remain unknown to me, and the memories therefore incomplete.

Yet these guys – whom I knew as the short one with a balding plate, the taller one and the “others” – showed me a good deal of regard. More than once they would go out of their way to arrange a seat for me when I arrived late and the bus was already about to leave. On the days I turned up early though, I would seek out the red and gold bus and find its personnel. These personnel could be doing anything from taking a leak to having their breakfast. Yet when they turned up I would be waiting for them. After a few months, I no longer needed to tell them where I would go.

Instead, I would simply fish out my wallet while approaching the bus, locate the conductor and hand him the cash. If I was the first, he would carefully inscribe the ticket with religious symbols and text before writing the seat number and the fare amount. Then he would respectfully touch the ticket to his forehead before giving it to me. It was, for the professional of the bus, a small expression of piety and hope that the journey would go well, that perhaps enough money would be earned and the roads would treat them well. They had chosen the fast life on the high roads, and knew the risks. This was the small -and perhaps only real protection – they could muster for the journey ahead.

Even if I did not know the name of the person in front of me, I have kept some of those tickets with me. These shall form proud markers of the unique relationship that I came to had with the bus named Radhagobindo and its attendants.

One of the “first” tickets that I was lucky enough to get!

This relationship extended to favourable seats. Indian buses are notorious for not providing every seat with equal access to window real estate. For the Radhagobindo, this discrimination ensured that the seats 1, 4, 6 and 8 had the greatest access. Indeed, these were the only ones where the seats corresponded to the entirety of a window. I would usually get 6 or 8. On the last day, I got the first ticket, and it was an 8. Again, a memory I shall cherish.

Now came the actual journey. When I’d extrapolated my own ideas onto Mersault, I had done so based on solid experience. Or to put it more aptly – bumpy, state highway grade experience. You see, Indians have a single solution to all the woes that befall riders on the highway. This solution is called the speed breaker, or as we all call it, the bumper. As the number of accidents on the  highway rose, so did the number of bumpers. In fact, a single town on the route – Chapra – had at least 5-6 bumpers. One of my colleagues had calculated the bumpers as anywhere between 30-33, and this only covered the part of the road up to Tehatta.

The result of this was that I had to constantly bounce on my seat as I headed into Tehatta. But strangely, the person who could not sleep on trains and in cars learnt to sleep on that bumpy ride. Occasionally, this meant headbutting the seat or some part of the window and waking up with a painful reminder that I was in fact, on a bus.

Despite these “hazards” though, the ride soon became one of the major ways in which I could rejuvenate myself while on the road. If I got the window seat, this was not very difficult, since the person sitting next to me would inevitably act as a barrier against my falling off. But when I was the one getting the aisle seat, dreams would more often be broken by the strange feeling of being launched into mid-air. Moments later, I was scrambling to maintain my hold on the seat and not to land up in the aisle.

Yet sleep I did, on the dusty roads that led to Tehatta. When I did not, I knew exactly which stop was coming. I never got down at any of them, though eventually fear of having to disembark at one of the more nondescript stops was suppressed. Despite this pragmatic aloofness, I had memorized the people who got on, and the actual appearance of that place.

For instance, I knew that a lot of people who got on at Krishnanagar would get down at Chapra. These would include some schoolgirls and schoolboys, some professionals working in various government jobs (including teachers of the govt. college there), and students returning from tuitions with little intention of actually attending the college.

Also, I knew that at Sonpukur and Maliapota, a lot of schoolgirls would get on, getting down at Taranipur. Again, I never bothered to find out what the school was, and whether any of the girls studying there eventually came to our college. But the very look of the place told me that the bus would suddenly light up with the chatter of a number of young girls. What they talked about – I wasn’t interested in. But the fact that they came and got down ensured that I had a human GPS system working for me, without having to fish out my phone.

In fact, over time I memorized the type of people and the landmarks associated with each of the stops that I went through. While it would be of no interest to the reader, I cannot let this information be lost!

Stop Landmarks People
Ghurni (ঘূর্ণি) A lot of totos and a merger of two roads coming into Krishnanagar with a bust of some important person in between.
Dayerbazar (দইয়েরবাজার) A school that was quite old.  The bus would stop in front of the school right on the bumper there. Mostly students.
Seemanagar (সীমানগর) A BSF camp with the 1st Battalion (and two more). This region was somewhat forested, though why only this region was forested was beyond me. That said, the presence of trees gave a temporary impression of having been taken to a hill station or being enroute to one. Military personnel
Chapra Srinagar More (চাপড়া শ্রীনগর মোড় ) The most important of the landmarks, with a huge number of people disembarking here. I had learnt that if we moved towards the border from here, we would eventually reach the Chapra Govt College Various
Chapra Bazar (চাপড়া বাজার) Literally the bazar. Also the place to meet if you’re planning on getting anything from the Chatro Sathi book house in Chapra. Various
Chapra Bangalchi More (চাপড়া ব্যাঙালচী মোড় ) The Bangalchi college was nearby. Also, the place served as a propaganda centre for shows involving Bangladeshi B-grade actors and performers Various
Choto Andulia (ছোট আন্দুলীয়া) I’m not sure this was a proper stop, but people did get down here. Also, you learned about this place from the various bank office boards. Various
Hatra Bazar (হাটরা বাজার) Smaller than either Tehatta or Chapra, this was probably the middle point of the journey (or felt like it). Various (with preponderance of young and studious types).
Bada Andulia (বড় আন্দুলীয়া) More schools, including one with what looked like a green burial epitaph that had been made part of the school wall Students and various
Sonpukur (সোনপুকুর) Another school, plus a church and a ground with a statue of Christ Various
Maliapota (মালিয়াপোতা) Nothing notable, except a single big green cross in a field. I have speculated that it is probably a grave, but have not been able to verify. Schools and some cool dudes who hang around the girls’ schools
Taranipur ( তরণীপুর ) A huge green mosque-type structure with a huge field in front of it. During winters it hosts local cricket matches and football matches, or both in tandem. Also, home to the Pathariaghata-2 Block Trinamul Office and the office of a certain Dr.  A Khan. Various, but including many schoolgirls with a blue and white uniform
Baliura ( বালিউরা) A building that may have been a school, or an office, at some time. It is now no longer in use, and looms like a relic from a bygone era – perhaps an era of glory for Baliura. Also, there is a ghat where people bathe, and where I was confident the buses would end up someday given their propensity for high stakes racing. Beginning of the riverside stretch of the road. Hardly anyone gets down here, or gets up from here for that matter. Buses often don’t bother to stop at all. I suspect this place is haunted at odd hours.
Tehatta PWD More (so known for the PWD offices located nearby) My stop. Approach marked by the river on  the left, a petrol pump and a small temple on the right All people associated with Tehatta and the college. In other words, the people who matter.
Tehatta Howlia More ( হাউলিয়া মোড়) My other stop. The one I took when I had to go to my camp before heading to college. Various, including some of my students.

 

The last part of my epic journey to the glorious land of Tehatta was a toto ride. Unlike the very professional, almost autorickshaw-like mentality of the Krishnanagar toto drivers, here you could have your way if you were insistent enough. As it happened, I didn’t bother being insistent and so ended up taking a Tehatta tour each day before reaching college. The tour would include trips to various schools, the occasional visit to the ghat and most often, the correctional home located on the outskirts of Tehatta.

Finally, after about five hours on the road (and rail), a turn on the Boyerbanda road would reveal the gate of my college. Depending on the month, either of the gates would be open and I would hop down, pay the amount I felt was right (which could vary between 10 and 20 rupees depending on the extra passengers picked up/dropped en route) and head in.

The journey to Tehatta Government College was complete.

The Road Out of Tehatta – Part IV – The Professional Life

Now that I’ve harangued about my personal life and its comforts and discomforts, let me talk about the professional part of my existence. This was the part for which I was paid by the government (literally) and was also the part which allowed me to live my life with dignity. The dignity of a teacher in a remote town of West Bengal.

As the regular reader of my blog (a fictional character I’m sure) would surely know, this wasn’t my first job as a teacher, but it was my first job as an Assistant Professor. In other words, this was my first permanent job with the full pay. Other than that, my duties were pretty much expected to be the same. After all, I’d already been a fruitful member of staff of Bhawanipur Educational Society College (BESC) for over half a year. How hard could Tehatta be ?

Pretty hard. At least that was my impression initially. Unlike the rather well-equipped college that I’d left, Tehatta literally had empty halls and emptier staff rolls. The college, from what I gleaned initially, had about half a dozen academic staff and about half that number of non-academic staff. This included the guards who doubled up as Group-C staff, Group-D staff who also doubled up as Group C staff, and a couple of group B staffers approaching superannuation.

The department itself had only one teacher apart from me, and thankfully, he took his job seriously. As such, the department was rather well run when I arrived, and with just one academic batch to teach, the course was also chugging along. As it turned out though, my department was somewhat lucky in having a teacher who had some experience. Others were completely staffed by new folks, many of whom joined within days or weeks of my joining. By late January our teaching strength had grown to about 10, two in each department, plus the Officer-in-Charge.

It is not my intention to detail all the classes I took or all the academic or non academic responsibilities I undertook. That would be the domain of a service book or a CAS report, neither of which should find a place on a personal blog like this one. What I’ll instead talk about is the very experience of working in a place unlike any I’d worked in before.

How was it unique ? I’ve already noted the staff crunch. Another problem was the location of the college. We proudly declared that the college was nestled “in the lap of nature, beside the beautiful river Jalangi” and forgot to mention that it was on the outskirts of even Tehatta in a place called Khaspur. Even the regulars of Tehatta didn’t wish to go there, and we were regularly charged extra by the e-rickshaws (or totos or tuktukis). We also didn’t mention that the college had practically nothing except grain and jute fields all around and barring a single tea shack ( which grew to two tea shacks by the time I left) there was little by way of refreshment. The college building itself was also modest – a two storey building that boasted of fresh paint and empty halls. Another building – the canteen and Students’ Room complex – would not become functional until the very last days of my stay in Tehatta.

Now to be fair, it had been worse. Among the first to join the college was the Officer in Charge or OIC, and he fondly recalled the days when he had to sit on the stairs of the latter building because the former was still under construction. I’d heard from my Head of Department how totos flatly refused to go to the college in the initial days, forcing teachers to undertake long negotiations. Food was in eternal short supply and initially, many had to skirt the river bank in order to go to the haat bazaar proper and get a meal.

But the most difficult – and urgent – task was handling the department. Despite the yeoman duty my HOD had undertaken prior to my arrival, there simply wasn’t enough in the department to run one. For one, there were no books available, and none would become available until some months later. Once they did, they could not be given out because the accession numbers had to be added first and no one amongst us knew how to add them. Needless to say, we didn’t have a librarian at hand to do the work.

But this problem was somewhat mitigated by the enthusiasm of the students. In Bhawanipur, I’d met students who had been all too seeped in the capitalist culture and considered education another marketable commodity in which their parents were investing. It would be far fetched to argue that the students of Tehatta were the  polar opposite, treating education as some sort of sacred duty. No, they also sought jobs, and education for them was also a means of getting them. Why else would subjects with less employability – like political science – get less applications while history was flooded with them ?

But there was one crucial difference. Students who came to study at the college came from backgrounds more diverse than can be listed here. However, many of them undertook substantial trouble just to turn up and study. They had to schedule their work (and almost all of them worked) to ensure that they had enough time to attend college (and tuitions, argh!) In some cases, they also had to cycle substantial distances before they could turn up to attend college. Last but not least, college for them wasn’t about freedom and enjoyment, but getting a degree which would get them somewhere in life. They took college more seriously than did the spoilt brats of BESC.

Teaching them therefore was somewhat easier. There were more inquisitive glances and less indiscipline than in BESC,  and this made life easier. I was teaching in Bengali for the first time in my life, and mistakes were inevitable. A time came when the students were correcting my language and I was appreciating it and improving myself. Note however that such correction was always in a respectful manner.

Again, the students had little to do in college other than to attend classes. Hence, only those who genuinely wished to attend classes came to college. This meant that the more unruly elements dropped out gradually and simply stopped coming. Despite our attempts to ensure attendance, there was little we could do to stop them, and this ensured that the class gradually came to be composed of more and more diligent students.

In all, I got to teach only two batches, one for one and a half years and the other for a year. Yet within that time, I tried and understood what their needs were, often through inputs by the students themselves. Demands for everything, from additional classes to even tests, were frequent. Whereas in city colleges the students shied away from the idea of a test, here I was actually asked to take tests and announce results early. This I did, and the response was something anyone, even a university teacher, would probably appreciate.

But it was not just the students who shaped my life at Tehatta Government College, though they proved to be the majoritarian influence. The other part of my life involved my colleagues. In BESC I’d found good people, but people who had become used to getting things done through staff and various committees. This allowed them to delegate work and somewhat inhibited their ability to learn the nitty gritty of running a college.

Tehatta however, had no staff to speak of and the committees were basically me and my colleagues. Inevitably, we had to cooperate and learn from whatever sources we could use. In doing so, we found out more about the way a college works than perhaps many learn in their entire careers. For instance, we learned how to fill out stock books and go through the complexities of admission. We learned how to create contingency lists and put up tender notices.

Most importantly however, we learned how to cooperate with each other. This is something some people never learn, doing what little they are asked to do and expecting the rest to adjust. If this was the attitude of even one person in Tehatta, the college would have been in the doldrums. However, we somehow, found it in us to work with each other and give 110% each time, reaching out over our own metaphorical cubicles without bumping anybody. Meetings were cordial, short and fruitful. Every moment spent in the committees ensured that we learned more and got to know each other better, thus becoming better colleagues and more efficient educational administrators.

But life went beyond committees too. There were the informal spaces within the formal space of the staff room, and here too, Tehatta shone. Most of us were young, and those who were not weren’t particularly averse to joining us youthful folks. From our relationships to the stupidities of our student days, we managed to discuss everything without ever feeling self-conscious or embarrassed. We could talk about each other’s shortcomings in front of each other, and no one would be offended. We could even have little wrestling matches when we felt like it, with (thankfully) no damage to college property.

Outside the staff room, we managed to mingle and play (literally) in the field. More than one winter afternoon was spent playing badminton or fooling around with a football. It helped that we had amongst us star players who could teach us a thing or two while thoroughly enjoying themselves.

The greatest banter was of course reserved for the convivial parties we had at night. You see, it was (and is) mandatory for government employees to attend college on a bandh day. So whenever a bandh was declared, we had to arrive the day earlier, or stay on an extra day (if the bandh day was our P-day). This inevitably meant that the night before the bandh day was one when many of us stayed in Tehatta, including those who normally did not. Since the vast majority of the teachers were male and young, it made sense to gather at one’s place and have a common meal.

While we could easily have arranged for someone to cook our food or even brought food from outside, here again we chose to cook ourselves. Apart from the small financial gain we had in cooking our own food, we also got the benefit of having food cooked by our colleague-chefs. We had so many of them (I wasn’t one of them unfortunately, though I aspired to be one), that each gathering had a different primary cook and a different primary dish. True that this dish was some variant of chicken curry, but it tasted different each time, and that was part of the fun.

Of course, when we speak of our colleagues and friends, there are things that cannot be put into writing, lest they become controversial. Tehatta was no different, though I can say that most controversies were resolved with remarkable amity, allowing us to continue working with each other the way we had before.

So, in hindsight, I can say that Tehatta taught me more than I could have hoped for. It wasn’t the cakewalk that some had predicted based on the small number of students, but it was also not the hell that many cityfolk had thought a mofussil college would be. One reason for this was of course, the fact that the students proved to be more sincere and hardworking than any I’ve seen  in the city. Another reason was the excellent set of teachers who managed to sink differences and work together in a way that helped all without burdening anyone. In doing so, the students and teachers taught me more than what I would have learned had I directly jumped from BESC to another city college, or even an established college in a remote region.

These lessons shall remain, even as the students and staff move on, and Tehatta itself moves farther and farther away from what I knew it to be. It would not be hyperbole to say that of the three places where I’ve taught till date, Tehatta Government College taught me more than any other, and for this, and for the great times I had with students and my colleagues, I shall always be thankful.

Au revoir!

(I’d have loved to add photos of the staff and students. However, while I realize that they share the same sentiments towards me as I do towards them, it is never wise to put up pictures of people without their permission. Also, the photos on this blog are downloadable and I wouldn’t want their photos to be misused just because of my sentimentality. Hence, where photos were the most called for, there will just be blocks and blocks of text.)